When I enter my room at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga, there’s a lot to take in. It’s a beautiful, light-washed room with a big bed that screams “have an afternoon nap in me”, and floor-to-ceiling windows where, between billowing curtains, you can see the arc of the Harbour Bridge poking out over the retreat’s lush treetops.
But first things first: I’m booked into an animal-view room, and I intend to view some animals.
I slide open the window and lean out – below I can see some pademelons and wallaroos between bushes and ferns. So far, so good. And I can hear the birds all chirping together and blending into a melodic background buzz. Great. Then I spy a sleepy little koala embracing the banksia tree right outside my window and having what looks like one of the great snoozes of history. If that doesn’t put you in the mood for a good night’s sleep, I don’t know what could.
It’s hard to believe that 15 minutes ago, I was in the middle of the Sydney CBD – then again, that’s always been part of the Taronga magic. I’m from Sydney, so I’m biased, but Taronga is arguably the best city zoo in the world. It’s certainly got the best view of iconic Sydney Harbour; although you can get there by all the usual means, the most convenient – and scenic – way to do it is by ferry. Get on at Circular Quay and watch as all the harbour’s icons give way to lush gums and little beaches. You’d barely know that there’s a whole zoo tucked away in the hills.
If you’re visiting Sydney from interstate or abroad, a trip to Taronga belongs on the list of must-do Sydney tourist attractions, and since late 2019 there’s been a new way to experience it. The Wildlife Retreat is a luxe eco-escape set in the corner of the zoo, just 10 minutes by ferry to the CBD so a great base to explore the city from. And because Taronga is not-for-profit, every dollar you spend goes back to the zoo’s conservation efforts – like breeding and releasing threatened species back into the wild. A stay at the Wildlife Retreat includes breakfast at the on-site Me-Gal restaurant, two days of access to the zoo and an exclusive tour of the Wildlife Sanctuary.
I’ve become so entranced – and jealous – of my new koala pal that I’m running late for my tour. Fellow guests and I rendezvous in the N’gurra Lounge, the central space of the Wildlife Retreat. The enormous indoor-outdoor lounge has the best wide-angle view of the Sydney skyline I’ve ever seen. I make a mental note to have a sunset cocktail there after the tour.
On the tour we get to meet the retreat’s inhabitants, from rescued echidnas (fun fact: baby echidnas are called puggles, which is just adorable) to little Tammar wallabies with tiny joeys in their pouches. Water dragons warm themselves on rocks, potaroos pot around, broad-shelled turtles just chill out in the sun. It’s unbelievably relaxing.
Then I see my mate up in his tree – turns out his name’s Matteo. Koalas sleep for 20 hours of the day and eat for the other four. I’m jealous of you and your life, Matteo.
Later, while I’m sipping a cocktail out on the balcony at N’gurra Lounge, a kookaburra flies up and strikes a pose for me in front of the harbour view.
After watching the sun go down, I head off on the night tour, one of the optional add-ons to a stay at the Wildlife Retreat. At dusk, after the zoo’s closed, you get the chance to check in on some nocturnal animals, and watch the rest get ready for bed. It’s surreal and serene getting to walk through the zoo in the evening. Our group watched capybaras having a night-time snack, a little fennec fox whizzing around its enclosure, and a couple giraffes craning their neck out to see what all the commotion was. It ended with witnessing Taronga’s lions, led by the big-maned Ato, having a pre-slumber rumble. As the lions went to sleep in front of us and the Sydney skyline, I couldn’t help but wonder whether these animals knew how lucky they are to live in prime Sydney real estate for free.
I’m back in time for my dinner reservation at Me-Gal. The menu here is modern Australian – think pork belly with Davidson’s plum, calamari with Warrigal greens, and a coconut wattleseed dessert – to complement the retreat’s all-Australian theme alongside an award-winning wine list. It calls itself one of the best-kept secrets in Sydney and it’s hard to disagree – it’s got one of the best restaurant views in the city. You can also dine at the restaurant if you’re not a retreat guest, and a few locals were taking full advantage of the vistas. Breakfast at Me-Gal is also a seriously good buffet scenario.
The next morning before brekkie there’s time for another quick guided tour of the zoo before it opens, which includes getting up close and personal with a bunch of native birds, red kangaroos, and Tasmanian devils lounging around in the morning sun. Zoos are a bit like music festivals: you go in wanting to see the headliners like tigers, elephants, and gorillas, but you leave with an odd attachment to newly discovered smaller acts like diamond firetail finches and shingleback lizards.
I get back to my room to pack and try to snatch one last glimpse of Matteo snuggling up to his branch. But he’s gone. Even the koala’s getting on with his day. Guess that’s my cue to get going, too.
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Taronga Zoo.
