Let’s face it: hospitality is hard work. Starting a new business is never easy, but opening a hospo venue is particularly difficult. Between licensing, fit-out, rent, cost-of-living pressures and the unpredictable nature of the industry, it’s no surprise so many independent cafes and restaurants are short-lived.
That’s one reason why Snug stands out. Just shy of a year old, the popular Coorparoo cafe-bar thrived from the very beginning. Not only a local favourite, Snug has become a destination venue, with people from across Brisbane making the trek. During the day, the kitchen turns out brunch options like prawn omurice and egg drop sandwiches, while on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights it becomes a wine bar, serving a rotating list of Korean-inspired snacks.
When they opened the doors in March 2024, Snug owners Leaham Claydon and Jianne Jeoung quickly found themselves facing queues of eager diners. “I’m forever confused about it,” Claydon says. “In our first month, a lady came up to us and goes, ‘You guys are so big on Tiktok.’ We just said, ‘What do you mean? We don’t even have Tiktok,’” says Jeoung.
But what seems like overnight success actually took months of work, beginning with the fit-out. “I would say everything bar plumbing and electrical was us or Jianne’s brother,” says Claydon. The couple have a shared background in hospitality, not carpentry. “It wasn’t our intention to do everything ourselves, but we quickly realised how expensive it would be otherwise.” The renovation involved a steep learning curve, but it gave the pair tighter control over Snug’s look and layout. Plus, the money they saved meant the business had a longer financial runway.
They even worked with Jeoung’s aunts in South Korea to make the plates, bowls and mugs used at Snug. “They make some of the most incredible ceramics,” says Claydon. “When people ask about the plates, it’s cool to be able to tell that story. And it’s sad when they break.” Jeoung says the difficulty of sourcing the handmade crockery has its benefits, too: “It kind of engages our staff to really look after them, knowing that we can’t replace those easily.”
Not all challenges could be solved with DIY – some required a more flexible approach. Jeoung and Claydon had aimed to open Snug as a bar initially, but the lengthy liquor licensing process forced them to change plans, opening as a cafe instead. “It wasn’t worth it to have this place ready and then be waiting for it to finally be approved six months down the line,” says Claydon.
Even the food licence wasn’t ready yet, limiting Snug to serving drinks and premade pastries for its first few weeks. Rather than treat the reduced offering as a compromise, Claydon says it became a template for developing the venue. “We would start simple and then add to it. I think it’s cool for people to see little things we’ve added over time and see us sorting things out as we go.”
The small open kitchen – with no professional oven or deep-fryer, and just enough space for two people – is another limitation they’ve turned into a strength. Snug’s Korean-style menu is as much a response to the space and tools available as it is a deliberate choice of cuisine. “We don’t have industrial tools like grease traps, which means no deep-frying, no really fatty meats … it’s definitely much healthier food,” says Claydon.
Working mostly on a stovetop means the focus is on fresh vegetables and seafood, as in many of Seoul’s tiny neighbourhood bars. And in Queensland, just like in South Korea, sourcing high-quality local fish and veggies is no problem.
Jeoung and Claydon keep finding similarities between the two places. A new discovery plays out when the pair mention enjoying a Long Run, a light, crisp Great Northern lager made with 100 per cent Australian-grown barley. “I was a little surprised,” says Jeoung. “It’s similar to Korean beers – very easy-drinking and goes with food.” Claydon hadn’t made the connection, but agrees it’s “quite comparable to Korean lagers. It packs a punch on flavour but doesn’t taste too heavy.”
Jeoung and Claydon are proud of the work they’ve put into Snug, but also quick to point out that the venue’s success is thanks to the ongoing support of locals and regulars.
Ultimately, Claydon says, what makes a venue last is simple. “It’s about the quality of the products on the plate. If the food’s incredible, I’ll always go back.”
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Long Run by Great Northern Brewing Co. Long Run is a premium beer inspired by Queensland’s outback, and brewed to bring people together.
