Delhi Delights: The Best Things I Ate, Drank and Saw in India’s Capital

Many of India’s trucks are decorated in stylish letters that spell out “Blow Horn”. Though state governments have tried to ban honking, it still blankets the streets in a blaring din. While ushering me through the city’s new-ish train network, Intrepid Travel tour leader Maddy explains that drivers do it as a way of safely overtaking another vehicle. Once I find out they’re friendly alerts they’re suddenly a lot less overwhelming. The traffic is moving slower and more considerately than at first glance.

Maddy is taking our Intrepid tour group to a famous food and spice market called Chandni Chowk to see Jama Masjid, a spectacular red sandstone and marble mosque built in the 17th century. It’s one of the largest in India but we’re there alone, joined only by a local cat lapping at a fountain. In a city so populous, it’s hard to imagine a place to find a spot of quiet all to yourself. But in the middle of Old Dehli’s crowded alleys, all I hear is a pair of black-shouldered kites crying above as the sun settles into the morning sky.

Jama Masjid is on the edge of Chandni Chowk market, also one of the best spots to safely sample some street food. After meandering the winding streets lined with mountains of chilli, turmeric and a type of sugar called jaggery, our Intrepid group visits Saini Refreshments for North Indian snacks like bedmi puri, a crispy deep-fried flatbread, and a spicy potato curry called aloo sabzi. But it’s the sweets that hooked me in. Specifically, jalebi and a famous lassi. Saini Refreshments’ jalebi is piped hypnotically into elegant sizzling swirls and deep-fried until it’s as crisp as it is juicy. Jalebi Wala, one of the oldest sweet shops in the city, specialises in these syrupy spirals and can be found nearby.

Lassi is a must-order for me at any Indian restaurant back home, and after a busy morning navigating the narrow alleys of Old Delhi, I’ve built up a thirst that only lassi can quench. Maddy brings us to Amritsari Lassi Wala, which serves some of the best-known lassi in the city. There are flavours such as mango, banana and rose to choose from, but after taste-testing the lot, the saffron lassi topped with slivered almonds was the scene stealer.

Many of the shopfronts in Old Delhi’s winding ancient streets are what Broadsheet would usually call “hole in the wall”. But on the corner of bustling Manohar market in Chandni Chowk, there’s a store that’s split horizontally, with a thigh-high masala chai operation down the bottom and a general store from the waist up.

Chai is an expression of its maker and everyone has a preference. Some of the drinks I’ve had on this trip were on the sweeter side – sometimes very sweet. Our Intrepid tour leader Maddy returns from the commotion of the split-level shop with a tray of chai that’s not overwhelmingly sugary, and popular enough to block the flow of people exiting the market. By far the best I’ve had in India, and easily the most memorable spot, too.

We head to Bangla Foods for a quick bite ahead of a day of exploring as part of our Intrepid tour. It’s a self-service family restaurant in Gole market with North and South Indian staples, street food and a sprawling cakes cabinet (take some for an afternoon snack). I kick things off with a masala dosa. The paper-style dosa here is crisp, impressively cylindrical and stuffed with potato masala and zingy chutney. I thought about it so much that I tried to replicate the meal that evening at Haldirams, a long-standing restaurant chain with an outpost next to Intrepid’s base hotel in the neighbourhood of Karol Bagh. This time, I ordered dosa alongside a serving of spicy-sour gol gappa also known as pani puri) which had been following me on TikTok before I arrived in India and lingered in my mind long after I departed.

Bangla Foods is on the way to Hauz Khas, a neighbourhood where I spent my off time from the tour. The artsy enclave has an emerging creative scene where bars, boutiques and tattoo parlours neighbour ancient ruins like Hauz Khas fort and the decaying domes of madrasas. There’s an array of art studios; a smattering of vintage stores for some unique wardrobe additions; and bars like Record Room, which has a great view of the sprawling park. It’s a quiet spot filled with art students gathering to draw and paint, shy young couples on dates, and a pair of visitors looking for a shady spot to enjoy those extra sweets from breakfast.

I can’t pretend I wasn’t overwhelmed by Delhi. Between throngs of people, spices wafting in the air and the polite yet unending honking, it’s undeniably intense at times. But like the traffic-filled streets, there’s a natural flow to the city and once I tuned into it (with a little help from my Intrepid local guide), it swept me off my feet. In just two days, Delhi rendered me overstimulated, overfed, totally overjoyed – and ready for more.

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Intrepid Travel. Book your trip through India’s Golden Triangle.