Best of 2024
Melbourne’s Best New Cafes and Bakeries of 2024
Wake up for a kakigori spot from a Japanese master, an inventive patisserie from a chef who worked in Versailles and many more.
Words by Audrey Payne·Friday 6 December 2024
I love restaurants and bars, but the venues on this list hold a special place because of the role they play in our daily lives. Bakeries like Akimbo, where you can pick up restaurant-quality bread, elevate our home lives, and I often find myself turning to places like Joy Jaune and Nuvoletta for a small treat to make my week that little bit better. Here are the best cafes, bakeries and dessert spots that opened this year, including a kakigori spot from a Japanese master and an inventive patisserie from a pastry chef who worked in Versailles.
Akimbo, Northcote
Before December 2023, chef and baker Lindsay Oates’s bread only appeared on restaurant menus and at farmers markets. But getting your hands on his slow-fermented loaves, fougasse and focaccia is much easier these days at Akimbo. The bakery’s two-tone exterior (and prominent Hot Bread signage) is a beacon opposite the swarming Northcote Aquatic & Recreation Centre. Peel off the footpath for tartines, palmiers and (a personal favourite) pepperoni pizzetta. Hot stuff. – Stephanie Vigilante, head of social media
Amann Patisserie, Carlton North
When a pastry chef who worked in Versailles opens a patisserie – where there’s no skimping on good-quality French butter – you expect it to be good. When your French friend (and a self-confessed pastry snob) slices open one of its croissants and raves about the flaky exterior, honeycomb structure of the crumb and buttery flavour, you know it’s good. And so began what became a mini degustation of treats from Amann Patisserie, where co-owner Yohann Godec makes around 150 pastries each day. There are permanent classics like lemon madeleines and pains au chocolat here, alongside changing pastry, cake and tart specials. The cinnamon roll and raspberry danish were clear highlights – and I’ll be back to try more on the menu. – Chynna Santos, branded content editor
Creme de la Creme, Spotswood
After years of baking cakes at home, wholesaling to cafes, and selling out at local markets across Melbourne, husband-and-wife duo Jazmin and Samih Ladkani have finally opened their own patisserie in Spotswood. Creme de la Creme celebrates baked goods with a Lebanese twist, offering standout creations like their knafeh croissant, infused with the flavours of the classic Middle Eastern dessert made with sweet cheese, shredded pastry and fragrant syrup.
But if you’re a sucker for savoury pastries like me, try the habibi – a crisp potato-topped danish with fresh chilli, garlic and lemon – or the Tripoli danish, with minced beef, Arab spices, toasted pine nuts, and tahini. It’s a two-for-one situation, that makes me feel like I’m having lunch and a treat at the same time. – Tri Nguyen, senior creative solutions manager
Glory Us, Fitzroy North
This outpost of a popular Strathmore cafe has all the charm of a country eatery, backed by the expertise of a team that has spent a collective six decades in hospitality. Rustic breakfast pizza and pie by the slice are drawcards, but owners Tori Bicknell and Mike Byard’s grassroots approach to hospitality is what makes this humble cafe really shine. – Quincy Malesovas, contributor
Good Daze Canteen, Fitzroy
Did Fitzroy need another gelateria? Probably not. But it never hurts. Good Daze is like a world map made of gelato flavours. It’s fun and it’s been a vital crutch for me in the recent heat. There’s a pistachio tiramisu flavour inspired by Sicily, and a mango sticky rice number that represents Thailand. But the local representative Milo flavour – which also pays homage to the Milo dinosaur drinks found in Singapore and Malaysia – hits the spot. – James Williams, creative solutions manager
Joy Jaune, Preston
I’m a proud member of the Joey Leung fan club. The pastry chef behind Joy Jaune at the Preston Market uses market produce to create incredible treats including choux pastry swans, olive oil cake served with poached pear and candied cumquats, and the best strawberry panna cotta I’ve ever had.
Leung also sells hot chocolate with house-made marshmallows flamed-to-order from her tiny butter-yellow-coloured store. She’s one of the best pastry chefs in Melbourne, but it’s her bright personality and clear adoration of her work and community – which shines through on her very fun Instagram account – that makes Joy Jaune a true delight. – Audrey Payne, Melbourne food and drink editor
Lilijana Eatery, Port Melbourne
Not only is this cafe run by some of the nicest people around, but the Nordic breakfast plates are all colourful and hit the spot. The farm plate with cheese, cured meats and house pickles is a girl dinner of dreams, but the sea plate with house-cured salmon and a soft egg is my personal favourite. When I went, they served cinnamon scrolls fresh out the oven – divine. – Camille Allen, social video producer
Nuvoletta Gelateria, Carnegie
I’ve taken multiple people to this gelato store from Vera Teodori and Alex Toretto, who first met in a gelateria in Rome more than 10 years ago, and I’ve yet to have anyone complain.
Nuvoletta is on the bustling restaurant hub that is Koornang Road and makes for the perfect post- (or, let’s be real) pre-dinner dessert stop.
Gelato is churned on-site with high-fat Jersey milk and St David Dairy cream. It has excellent rich flavours including coffee, cookie crumble, and dark chocolate. But the fruit flavours, like Kensington mango, blood orange and mandarin, and watermelon, strawberry and rose, are the standouts for me. – Audrey Payne, Melbourne food and drink editor
Sebastian Kakigori, CBD
A block of special ice made from water from Mount Hakusan in Kanazawa is shaved into a little snow mountain within view of the table. It’s then flavoured with syrup and toppings, such as mochi and fruits, and compacted into an impressive, slow-melting snow orb. The kakigori here is sweet, delicate and a bit messy in all the right ways. –James Williams, creative solutions manager
Skinny’s, Preston
This quiet little corner has been a beacon for Preston locals (and Brunswick blow-ins like me) since it opened at the close of last year. The retro diner goes heavy on nostalgia – there’s Scotch eggs, chicken-salt hash browns, cherry bomb floats and pink-glazed doughnuts – alongside American-style sandwiches like meatball subs and pastrami, egg and cheese rolls. The $1 batch brew refills make a good case for lingering, plus there’s a huge range of sodas and Nippy’s cartons to remind you of its milk bar heritage. – Daniela Frangos, contributor
Stan’s Grill, Spotswood
It’s time to celebrate the chevapi. And one of the tastier spots to do this is at Stan’s Grill. These grilled skinless Balkan sausages are served inside crisp flatbread and topped with thinly sliced onions and pickles. But while the menu is tight – with just nine items –sausages are only one of the attractions here. Alongside chevapi, there are burgers and a tidy list of sides including chicken-salt-covered hot chips and ajvar, a house-made roasted capsicum relish. – Claire Adey, contributor
Zita’s Focaccia, South Yarra
Melbourne’s got plenty of sandwich shops, but none are quite like Zita’s. In lieu of the thick, pillowy focaccia most of us in Australia are accustomed to, they specialise in traditional Roman and Genovese styles: light, thin, not-too-oily breads you can fit your jaw around. Florentine sandwich shop All’Antico Vinaio may have popularised the mortadella, pistachio and stracciatella combo, but I reckon Zita’s fan-favourite Roman Empire (which adds artichoke sauce to the mix) is single-handedly keeping the trend alive. – Quincy Malesovas, contributor
Honourable mentions
Moon Mart, Tofu Shoten, Austro Bakery, Candied Bakery and Sundae School (which opened at the very end of 2023) all got upgraded digs this year – making the time we had to live without them while moves and builds were worked out, worth it.
Sanhe Congee opened in West Melbourne, making over 30 versions of the Chinese rice porridge available at our fingertips. Mont Albert North’s popular cafe Matilda opened Petite by Matilda across the street, upping the neighbourhood’s cake and sandwich game, and the team behind Terror Twilight and Hi Fi added a slightly more grown-up venue to their stable with daytime diner Ophelia in Northcote.
About the author
Audrey Payne is Broadsheet Melbourne's food & drink editor.