When hospitality groups acquire heritage pubs, the handover often comes with loud announcements and transformative refits. But Mark Kamleh, Nick Stock and Stefano Longhi are going for a slow and steady evolution.
The trio behind the revitalised Silver Sands Beach Club quietly took over Willunga’s Old Bush Inn (known by locals as “The Top Pub” for its position at the top of High Street – there’s also a bottom pub and a middle pub) last month. They've kept business running as usual, without a break in service and with much of the existing staff (“they’ve made the transition as easy as it can be,” says Kamleh).
The menu has had a refresh, and there are are plans to spruce the place up, but its rustic, laid-back country charm will remain squarely intact. “We’re not changing heaps … lighting is the next big change, and we plan to rip up the carpets, put down Persian rugs and give it a paint job,” Kamleh tells Broadsheet. “It’s quirky … it’s a bit western, a bit mid-century.”
The tiny township punches well above its weight: it’s home to the famous weekly farmers market, tap houses and cellar doors, an almond door, and destination diner Muni. But there hasn’t been a place to grab a midweek bistro meal, says Kamleh.
“Muni is awesome, it’s Muni and it’s not for everyone and it’s not for every day. Russell’s Pizza is weekends only. There’s another pizza place and a general store ... but it’s been missing a classic Australian bistro. There’s nowhere to get a bowl of pasta or a half roast chook. People who live in the area visit us at the surf club, a 20-minute drive away. So for us, this is a good way to serve the town.”
Both Kamleh and Stock live nearby in Sellicks Beach, while Longhi (the head chef at Silver Sands) has settled in Port Willunga after relocating from northern Italy. He’s added some Italian influence to the pub’s menu with porcini and truffle arancini, eggplant parmigiana, the occasional porchetta and, soon, handmade pastas.
“If we can make it in-house we will. All the bread is made in-house. Schnitzels are made in-house. We’re not buying in frozen food. We’re getting all our meat from Ellis Butcher in Mclaren Vale,” says Kamleh.
“The kitchen is still undeveloped. We’ve ripped out a lot of stuff so we’re slowly building it back.”
While Silver Sands Beach Club has a natural seafood focus, the pub is going for a “homier feel”. Menu mainstays include pot pies and Sunday roasts. There’s also an old-school chicken caesar salad – a hangover from the previous menu. “People really loved it so we’ve tweaked it and made it our own with buttermilk dressing,” says Kamleh.
As with the food, the drinks are catering to rusted-on barflies and newer regulars alike. There’s Coopers and West End on tap; cans of Bowden Brewing, Goodieson and Swell Brewery in the fridge; and a neat one-page wine list – in sharp contrast to the surf club’s 500-odd drops. “Even though it’s been trading and certainly has a lot of wine loving clientele already, we’re starting out in a way that’s manageable for everybody,” says Stock.
The list leans on Fleurieu locals, from Sherrah and Brash Higgins to established labels like Coriole and Chalk Hill. There’s also a small crop of internationals. “A lot of people who make those [local] wines come to the pub and they want to drink wines they haven’t seen before or wines that inspire or inform the wines they make, so we cater to both audiences,” says Stock.
Swill a glass under the wraparound verandah or, come summer, out in the newly reopened beer garden. “We’re currently getting the garden under control,” says Stock. “We’ll slowly make our way through the place, we’re taking our time with it. It’s got a good, loyal existing clientele – they’ve been here longer than we have so we want to get to know them and earn their trust.”
There’ll also be a live music program later in the year curated by local musician Surahn Sidhu, who owns Papershell Farm.
Old Bush Inn
51 High Street, Willunga
(08) 8557 1000
Hours:
Daily 11am–late
