Dokeo feels a little like a comic book superhero: it has dual identities, a secret lair and is committed to changing the world for the better.
The new cafe and bar is from winemaker Vasily Sekerin and Intersection Traders’ Daniel Gregg. And it’s turning out coffee, toasties and pastries (for now) and local wines with snacks (soon, licence permitting) down a quiet CBD side street between Wakefield and Angus Streets.
It’s a small set-up with a big heart. “We are focused on sourcing our coffee ethically and reducing barriers for small winemakers entering the market,” Gregg tells Broadsheet. “Between us we have a pretty solid understanding of coffee and wine supply chains, and a solid record of establishing ethical practices.”
Intersection Traders sources directly from Uganda – connecting with producers to access exclusive harvests, which it then imports and roasts in SA. “The process has evolved from a research program that has demonstrated we can generate really super-quality coffee whilst ensuring we target the poorest coffee farmers in the region,” Gregg explains.
Once established, the cafe will also be the base for a new filter-coffee delivery service available to CBD businesses.
Once the sun drops and the espresso machine powers down, the space will become a wine bar pouring drops from South Australian emerging and small-scale producers. Sekerin owns and operates State of Nature Wines – a sustainability focused winery in the Adelaide Hills – so expect to see a few of his drops on the bill, alongside pours from Forlak, Camwell, Reverb, Slow Lane, Moorak, Orbis Luva, Parley and others.
Taking over from a motorcycle garage, Dokeo is simple and sparse – but not without charm. There’s a timber counter, a few tables with stools, and an abundance of natural light. Expect to see Gregg and/or Sekerin on the tools most days.
“We wanted a place where people could feel relaxed, that had the flexibility for us to offer high-quality produce,” Gregg says. The location also had other perks. “It was also cheap, which allowed us to put our own touch on the space.”
Pastries come from Prove Patisserie, and there’s a selection of lunchtime toasties made with Soiboii sourdough. Once licensed, the wine bar will operate from 4pm, with snacks by other local producers – including sourdough baguettes with salted olive oil, rillettes and more.
Dokeo
18 Gunson Street, Adelaide
Hours
Mon to Fri 7am–2.30pm