The Lex

When it was announced that Three Blue Ducks at the W Hotel was closing, Brisbane diners were left wondering what would fill its place. The answer? The Lex, a classy New York-inspired grill that’s a flush fit for the five-star hotel.

The Lex’s chef Pawel Klodowski has quite the pedigree, having worked in New York before heading to Copenhagen to cook alongside chef Rene Redzepi at his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Noma.

On his menu you’ll find creative snacks like tater tots with Avruga caviar and crème fraîche, and an elaborate take on a hotdog made with barbequed octopus. Entrees could be soy-and-mirin-cured ocean trout, or grilled lobster with lemon beurre blanc.

Humidity-controlled cabinets mean there are dry-aged meat options, such as macadamia-crusted cobia with buttermilk and tarragon, and a large marbled tomahawk steak from Warwick that’s designed for sharing. To complement the items from the grill, there are classic sides like mac’n’cheese, and a ceasar salad that’s served tableside from a custom-built trolley.

Cocktails lean classics, with an ice-cold oyster brine Martini and a raft of spritzes, including the Bridge 40 (local gin, house-made limoncello and champagne). Champagne cocktails are mixed tableside, adding theatrical flair to the drinks service.

Overlooking the Brisbane river, the space hasn’t changed much since the Three Blue Ducks days. Panelled walls, rattan chairs and dark timber tables are a nod to the heritage Queenslander look. And there’s also a new bar lounge, which Klodowski reckons is the place to go for a cocktail before or after a meal.