Detour

After numerous setbacks, including a collapsed ceiling and endlessly negotiating curly heritage rules, Damon Amos’ Detour opened in January 2017.

You might recognise Amos’s name from his time heading up the kitchen at fine-diner Public, where he challenged diners with exotic touches such as black ants and worms.

At this 140-seater, the menu is split into two parts: omnivore and herbivore. The former features dishes such as gunpowder-seasoned salmon with green curry and black ants, and pork belly with star anise, bean sprouts and pancakes. Vegetarians and vegans are well catered for, with the herbivore menu including fossilised (slowly dried over a number of days) carrots with smoked almonds and chia, and Hawaiian curry with sweet potatoes, coconut and lychees.

The short drinks menu is made up of six reds, six whites, three rosés, three champagnes, cocktails and a selection of beers on tap and in the bottle.

The restaurant’s interior retains rustic elements from its former life as an antique store, with copper and timber additions acting as striking modern highlights. Pockets of foliage break up the dark tones, and large open windows bring the busy precinct inside.

The open kitchen’s centrepiece is a large, custom-built timber bench, where Amos busily plates up his dishes.