Molli

Molli, by Nathan Toleman and the Mulberry Group (Lilac, Hazel, Dessous, Zareh), represents something of a full-circle moment for Toleman. The restaurant is across the road from where the hospo mogul opened his third venue, Three Bags Full, in 2010.

To eat, there might be snacks like house-made nori crackers with mushroom ketchup and duck fat-fried potato rosti with sour cream and chives. Plus, larger plates like house-made pasta and Wagyu rump cap with piperade (a saucy Basque dish made with tomato, onions and green capsicum). There’s also charcuterie and a cart of cheese and dessert filled with sweets that may include sticky date pudding and pickled cherry chocolate tortes. The team sources produce from Common Ground Project, Mulberry Group’s farm in Freshwater Creek.

The rotating cocktail list emphasises ferments and preserves. There might be Basket Case, made with tequila, fermented persimmon, native cinnamon myrtle and native juniper, and Better Together with spiced rum, roasted hazelnut orgeat syrup, mutsu apple butter (cooked down apple sauce), black tea and clarified milk. You can order shareable versions in nostalgic punchbowls. The wine list showcases a number of smaller local producers and family-run operations from overseas.

The space features pendant art deco globes and dimmable strip lighting behind the banquettes, and abundant greenery and antique furniture throughout. French wooden sideboards with parquetry inlays, gilt-framed mirrors and oil paintings sit alongside thrift shop curios. The restaurant has a rooftop function space with raised potager beds, chickens and city views.