State of Grace

Between the enormous, glitzy chandeliers, a taxidermy giraffe head, souvenir teaspoon collections, and a faux-marble Roman-inspired wall sculpture, there’s a lot going on inside State of Grace.

Much of it came from the old venue – State of Grace first opened on Collins Street five years ago, and moved to King Street when the lease ran out – but there are some new trinkets thrown into the mix as well. Many of them adorn the walls.

The majestic Melbourne Steamship Co. building was once offices. Now it’s two dining rooms. One at ground level, with high ceilings, huge bi-fold windows looking out onto King Street and an old-world-style bar complete with balustrades, and another on the mezzanine.

Downstairs there’s a “hidden” bar named Fall From Grace. A sliding bookcase reveals a dimly lit den with a gothic speakeasy vibe. Grab a seat in one of the plush Victorian-style armchairs.

The Diamonds and Pearls cocktail is raspberry-infused Lillet Rosè, vodka, lemon and mint topped with prosecco, and the house Negroni is charged with coffee Amaro. The New York Sour has a bourbon base and a red wine float.

On tap, there are three Victorian brews and a couple from further afield, plus some craft tinnies. The wine list spans mostly Australian and French drops, plus a few Californians.

To eat are European-influenced dishes. Start with salted, candied and smoked almonds, or chicken-liver pate with orange curd and brioche. Then move onto Hazeldene chicken with carrot and quinoa, or Aylesbury duck breast and leg with freekeh and rhubarb.