Smith St Bistrot

Scott Pickett, the chef-restaurateur behind CBD bistro Chancery Lane and its daytime counterpart Le Shoppe, opened his sexy French bistro – romantically – on Valentine’s Day.

The self-described “naughty little sister” to those aforementioned venues feels like something from another time and place. Specifically, the left bank in Paris circa 1930, complete with an exposed-brick interior lined with fresh moss, antique mirrors, gothic chandeliers and burgundy banquettes.

The bar is stocked with all the makings of a classic Parisian cocktail spot (think dirty Martinis and French 75s) and an extensive list of French and local wine that goes everywhere from $40 a bottle up to $1000.

A mezzanine above the bar overlooks the dining area. Scattered with a few tall tables, it’s perfect for perching with a cocktail and a plate of oysters (natural, Kilpatrick or Rockefeller). For something a little more luxurious, there’s also a caviar service: two varieties (including Beluga) come with blinis and traditional garnishes.

Pickett has recruited chef Daniel Southern, formerly of Bar Margaux to helm the kitchen. Expect playful spins on French classics, such as vol-au-vent d’escargot (garlicky braised snails in puff pastry), oeufs mayonnaise (a simple French dish of hard-boiled eggs and mayo that’s topped with caviar) and dry-aged steak with mushroom duxelles and peppercorn sauce. Desserts include champagne sorbet, creme caramel and a raspberry souffle that’s made to order in a traditional copper pot.