Little Lagos founder Adetokunboh “Ade” Adeniyi wants Melburnians to know that his new Nigerian joint is not just a restaurant. “Yes, food is a big part of our offering, but we do so many other things. This place, and our business, are so much more,” he tells Broadsheet.

Adeniyi has just opened the first Melbourne outpost of his popular restaurant – which started out as a pop-up in Sydney, and now has permanent spots in both Sydney and Brisbane – in chef Sebastian Pasinetti’s Oko Rooftop and Cafe in Fitzroy.

After kicking things off with a three-day party, the pop-up is now running at Oko every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. It will remain there until Adeniyi can find a more permanent space, which he hopes to turn into a hub for the local West African community.

We think you might like Access. For $12 a month, join our membership program to stay in the know.

SIGN UP

Already, the Melbourne pop-up is a hub by and for the African diaspora, extending its exuberant, easy brand of hospitality outward. With a range of upcoming activations, including art exhibitions, live music, and even an outdoor carnival in the works, Adeniyi and the team have created a place where communities can connect and converge.

On the menu, prepared by head chef Adebukola Oni, you’ll find Little Lagos’s best-selling goat stew, which has been around since the diner’s early days. The meat is slow-cooked till tender in a vibrant sauce of blended tomatoes, red capsicum, onion and habanero peppers. These ingredients – the “fantastic four”, as Adeniyi calls them – feature a warming flavour base in many Nigerian dishes.

They’re used in jollof rice, another Little Lagos staple, which Adeniyi says sparks heated debate in Nigeria, Ghana and Senegal – everyone thinks their mother’s version is best. On an equal footing with the meaty options are the black-eye beans: a soft, hearty and chilli-kissed plant-based dish, best enjoyed with a side of fried plantains. There’s also fufu (pounded yam), “puff puff” doughnut balls, and flaky Nigerian meat pies stuffed with ground beef, potatoes and carrots.

For those embedded in the West African community, this food can feel like a familiar hug. For others, it may be a new experience, piquing curiosity and conversation. Adeniyi sees it going a long way toward improving cultural understanding – an issue he is personally and professionally invested in.

It’s one reason Little Lagos frequently gives the floor over to African chefs in its orbit, through its regular Sundays Village Kitchen series.

“The concept came about because I know what I went through in finding a space. I’ve had landlords who said, ‘No, we don’t want African food – it will stink, it will bring down the property value. Whether you call that racism, discrimination, or prejudice, it doesn’t matter. When it’s not something people know, they don’t know what to expect. These are the hurdles we face,” says Adeniyi.

“By opening our kitchen to other diaspora cultures and cuisines we learn so much,” he adds. “But really, we do it because we don’t want Little Lagos to stand alone. I’d love to see Little Atlanta, Little Guyana, Little Kingston … so that on my days off, I can eat there!”

Little Lagos at Oko Rooftop and Bar
60 Rose Street, Fitzroy
No phone

Hours:
Fri to Sun 4pm–9pm

@alittlelagos