Before the DOC empire, there was DOC Espresso (originally called Carlton Espresso). After two decades serving pasta, piadina and panini to the people of Lygon Street, the old-school espresso bar has had a refresh. But its charming Italian hospitality remains. When Broadsheet visits, the warm sounds of “Buongiorno! Buonasera! Benvenuto!” echo through the space as staff wave to familiar faces across the tree-lined street.

“When we first started 20 years ago, it was just a little bar – a meeting point for the community,” says director Michael Costanzo. “People would drive up, have a coffee and a cornetto, and go. I loved it. But after Covid, things really changed. Now we’re injecting everything we have to offer into this renovation to re-engage the community and keep the street alive.”

The newly revamped DOC Osteria (as its now called) has transformed from a casual all-day diner with chalkboards and wooden tables into a flashier afternoon and evening affair, complete with a beautiful red marble bartop, burgundy banquettes, chic gold accents and custom artwork by Kate Florence.

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General manager Simone Staltari describes it as “a modern fit-out with an old heart”. “Elegant but not pretentious. We want everyone to feel welcome.”

The 46-seat osteria is the latest member of the DOC Gastronomia family (there are locations in Mornington, St Kilda, Southbank and Surry Hills). It’s designed to facilitate afternoon aperitivi, inspired by modern osterias across Turin and Milan.

The kitchen has more than doubled in size and undergone a complete overhaul, paving the way for a new menu featuring antipasto, cicchetti, freshly made pasta like prosciutto and ricotta cappelletti with leek cream, and secondi including saltimbocca and eggplant cotoletta. Rest assured, the beloved tiramisu isn’t going anywhere.

There’s the addition of a hidden door leading to the adjoining DOC Delicatessen and Espresso, which has now merged into a specialty grocer, paninoteca and cafe.

The front dining area and back courtyard – soon to feature fresh basil and climbing vines – have also been refurbished. Both are picturesque spots to take in aperitivi service from 3pm to 6pm, alongside a selection of Italian wines, cocktails and snacks.

In true DOC style – the acronym is short for Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Controlled Designation of Origin), which ensures ingredients meet specific quality standards from their region – the venue champions artisanal producers. Flour comes from Veneto, supplied by Petra Farina, a family-run milling business with over 100 years of experience. The team also uses organic tomatoes from Petrilli in Puglia and Chianina beef from Isola Farm in South Gippsland, run by fifth-generation farmer Sam Walker and his wife Daniela Mollica.

“Our restaurant is about connection – people, atmosphere, and the excitement of something to look forward to,” says Costanzo. “Our city needs more of that, now more than ever.”

DOC Espresso reopens as DOC Osteria at 326 Lygon Street, Carlton tomorrow.