Chef Pierre Khodja (ex-Camus), was born near Dréan, Algeria, and raised in Marseilles in the south of France. He trained in classical French cuisine in Paris and London, working in Michelin-starred restaurants including Ma Cuisine and Bistro Bruno (with top English chef Bruno Loubet), but Khodja says his childhood was an amalgamation of ocean-fresh seafood and North African spices.

At his new South Yarra restaurant Mr L’s, a partnership with Lucky Thapliyal (Bean & Base Cafe), Khodja draws influence from the food he grew up eating. “It’s my childhood food,” Khodja tells Broadsheet.

While there are some traditional French dishes like Marseille-style bouillabaisse (fish soup). Mr L’s is a Mediterranean restaurant, taking inspiration from North Africa as much as Italy, Greece and Turkey.

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There’s sauteed king prawn with diced chorizo and Calabrian chilli butter; and pan-seared snapper with chermoula, a North African green sauce. The North African influence is also seen in the slow-roasted rack of lamb with merguez sausage, a cumin and chilli-spiced lamb sausage common in Algeria.

The team says the venue’s design aims for classic “Gatsby glamour” and the dining room on the ground floor has large glass chandeliers and sleek wood panelling. There’s a hidden bar at the back, which will soon have a separate drinks list to the restaurant, and Khodja is using the restaurant’s upper level to train his pastry team. Expect to see a quince tarte tatin with star anise ice-cream and a Turkish delight-inspired soufflé served with halva ice-cream and a side of baklava.

The extensive wine list is features local drops from around Victoria alongside the expected French contingent, while the cocktail list maintains an element of surprise, with drinks solely described by their dominant spirit and tasting notes. In addition to crowd-pleasers such as the Extra Virgin Olive Oil Martini and L’s Negroni, there’s a Pina Colada-inspired drink called Pineapple Express, described on the menu simply as “rum: light, tropical, lingering coconut”, and an Espresso Martini-style number called the CX-presso, described as “rum: rich, sweet, 25 coffee, fragrant”.

Mr L’s
25 Toorak Road, South Yarra
0468 555 005

Hours:
Wed 5pm to late
Thu to Sun midday–3pm, 5pm–late

mrlsmelbourne.com.au