What makes good pastry? For Amann Patisserie co-owner Yohann Godec, it’s time and lots of French butter.

When working at Maison Bigot, one of the biggest boulangeries in Versailles, Godec says he often had to compromise on quality to churn out croissants. Now, at the Carlton North pastry window he runs with partner Alizee Le Goff, Godec spends nine hours rolling out a batch of around 150 pastries each day before the shop opens. The dough is then proofed overnight and baked in the morning. “You can’t make something beautiful when you work fast,” he tells Broadsheet.

Godec and Le Goff are both from France, but met at Le Caprice Patisserie in Brisbane where they held the positions of head chef and barista respectively.

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They moved to Melbourne together in 2022 and, seven months ago, started delivering online orders to the western suburbs, popping up at Ruby’s Cafe in Yarraville on weekends and wholesaling pastries to Chapter One in Brooklyn – which is still the best place to get Amann’s pastries if you can’t make it to the new shop.

At the end of June, Amann Patisserie opened its first brick-and-mortar venue, in a former commercial kitchen, and the storefront window offers a front-row view to watch Godrec at work.

Le Goff tells Broadsheet they haven’t renovated the space at all, except for installing a countertop. “Our highest priority is delivering quality products, and the pastry door concept ensures our efforts and passion are focused on our products,” she explains.

Amann Patisserie’s permanent menu pays homage to breakfast staples the couple grew up eating in France, including plain croissants, lemon madeleines and pain au chocolat made with Belgian chocolate. These classic offerings all follow “the good recipes” Godec learnt during his culinary training in Cuzon, France.

“It’s just tradition really, and it’s stuff that we can’t always find here. For our French friends, the madeleines are like going back to childhood,” says Le Goff. “Australians are very good at borrowing from other cultures and creating new things. It’s incredible to see, but we just wanted to create something that was authentically French.”

There are also changing specials, as well as a new tart and cake flavour every week. Previously, baked treats have included carrot cake, chocolate tarts and strawberry cheesecake croissants. Crowd favourites are promoted to the permanent menu, such as the Biscoff brioche loaf and the maple bacon danish. The latter is made with shaved parmesan; caramelised onions in bechamel, maple syrup and mustard; and bacon from North Carlton Quality Meats just down the road.

While Godec’s slow and careful baking style makes for perfect layers and lamination, it also means the pastries sell out quickly, so it’s best to get to Amann early.

Amann Patisserie
645 Nicholson Street, Carlton North
0416 603 183

Hours:
Fri to Sun 8am–midday

amannpatisserie.com.au