On paper, the pickleback sounds like a bad time. Knock down a shot of something strong (traditionally whiskey) and chase it with a shot of pickle brine – literally the salty-sweet, vinegary water used to pickle vegetables. But the combination is one of those serendipitous discoveries that just works, with the brine cutting right through the alcoholic burn. It’s a drink that needs to be experienced to be understood. While the whiskey and pickle brine pairing is king, we’ve found five creative Melbourne bars pushing the one-two combo a little further. Take a tour of Melbourne’s “fine brine” merchants.

The Swamp
Pay a visit to the Swamp (the dark and steamy secret bar hidden between Bar Ampere and Gin Palace) for two divergent takes on the pickleback. The first is classic as it comes: George Dickel Tennessee Whisky served with manager (and self-described “head swamp creature”) Nate Bohrod’s own brine recipe. Don’t even mention Scottish whisky – Bohrod believes American whiskey is the only acceptable option for the pickleback. His version is simple, but it’s supposed to be. “I believe that a pickle should be dill and nothing else,” says Nate. “I just want a mouthful of dill and vinegar.” Naturally he calls them “Dickelbacks”.

But he has relented slightly, adding a version with pickled peach brine – featuring cloves, cinnamon and brown sugar – served with Wild Turkey rye whiskey.

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$10 each.

Bluebonnet Barbecue
This American barbeque stalwart is pumping out three pickleback variations to stimulate appetites for the smoked meat feast to come. The brine from New South Wales’s Westmont Pickles is ramped up with extra salt and vinegar and paired with Buffalo Trace bourbon. Then there’s Four Pillars Rare Dry gin paired with olive brine – imagine the dirtiest martini going around, but in two parts. For something with a bit of kick, go for pickled jalapeno brine and blanco tequila. The actual pickles themselves are used in the kitchen, going into sausages, Texan-style vegan chilli and more – it’s a beautiful cycle.

$11 each.

The Rooks Return
This relaxed and homey bar on Brunswick Street doesn’t subscribe to the craziness of infinite variations – they’re going for quality and tradition. The Rooks Return uses the subtle sweetness of Bulleit bourbon to balance the potency of the house-made brine. Owner Mel Musu uses a variation on the green tomato pickle he developed while working as the chef at Rockwell and Sons, adding fennel, cumin, chilli – and a bottle of lager. The brine is made just for picklebacks and is always chilled for maximum refreshment. In the early days, staff and regulars would do a pickleback every time Creedence Clearwater Revival came on the stereo. The best time to bring that tradition back is on Thursday’s honky-tonk night, when a live country band and plenty of cowboy hats come out for a hoedown. Grab a $5 tinnie while you’re at it.

$10 each.

Lily Black’s
This seminal laneway cocktail bar – and something of a “bartender’s bar” – has been encouraging the brine life for years now, with three options ranging from classic to creative. Jameson whiskey and pickle brine always features on the menu (the other two pickleback options regularly rotate), but for something on par with the rest of Lily Black’s creative cocktail menu, try the Gin Face – a play on the classic Gibson cocktail, which pairs Archie Rose dry gin with juniper-infused pickled onion brine. For something a little left of centre, the Sweet and Spicy is Olmeca Altos blanco tequila and pickled pineapple with chilli.

$12 to $16 each.

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on March 7, 2019. Details may have changed since publication.