It’s almost as if Frenchman Jordan Clavaron was destined to be a chef.

He grew up learning from his chef father, who worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in France, before going on to work in some himself – including L’Atelier by legendary French chef Jöel Robuchon.

After a quick Aussie jaunt in the early 2010s, he settled more permanently here in September 2021. And for the last year he’s helmed the kitchen at fine diner Cape, at RACV Cape Schanck Resort. But now he’s taken the reins at Fitzroy classic Cutler & Co, which leading Melbourne restaurateur Andrew McConnell opened in 2009. Thirteen years on, it’s still as refined as ever – with a skilful restraint that makes it a Melbourne classic.

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Broadsheet took five with its new head chef to chat about his globetrotting career, the shift in Melbourne dining culture and white asparagus.

You’re from France originally. When did you come out to Australia, and what led you to move here?
I originally came to Australia in 2013 for a sea change. I had friends based in Sydney who opened my eyes to all of the amazing opportunities here for a young chef, and I was back on a flight within three weeks.

Tell us a bit about your career to date. Where have you worked previously?
I have been fortunate enough to work in kitchens in Paris, London, Sydney, Brisbane and now Melbourne. My biggest accomplishments to date would be being appointed sous chef at Marcus by Marcus Wareing in London and senior chef de partie at L’Atelier by Jöel Robuchon.

Is the produce much different here compared to what you're used to? How?
I would say that yes, it is different, however, in the best way possible. Working in Victoria, I feel that we have incredible produce right on our doorstep, making it easier to connect with the farmers and suppliers. The produce here is unlike any other and having the ability to work with the fresh, just-harvested ingredients is always exciting.

Which ingredients and local producers are you most excited by?
Asparagus season would be my favourite time of the year. The introduction of Australian white asparagus this year has me so excited. It's a small reminder of home for me, and the versatility in the vegetable is extraordinary.

What are your ambitions for Cutler & Co? Is there a new direction you want to take it?
I feel food and dining out, in general, is shifting in Melbourne at the moment. Dining out is more casual and accessible to a lot more people, with the food looking and sounding simpler; however, in truth the techniques and hours put into each dish are at the level of a two-Michelin-star restaurant – it's a strange combination, but one that works. Cutler & Co is an institution in Melbourne, so I do not want to change what it is at its core – in saying that I will be introducing myself into the menu in subtle ways.

cutlerandco.com.au
@chef_jordanclavaron

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