For years, Broadsheet has published a regular series called “I Can’t Stop Thinking About”, heroing the dishes – great or small – that live in our editors’ heads rent-free. But now we’re flipping the script. For this spin-off, we asked a dozen local chefs and restaurateurs which Melbourne dish they simply couldn’t live without.

Guy Grossi, Florentino, Merchant, Ombra and Arlechin
“The one Melbourne dish that I can’t live without is steak tartare from France-Soir. Tartare is a dish that I always gravitate to and there are lots of good examples of it across the city that I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy. But none of them can quite beat France-Soir. There’s absolutely nothing untraditional in it – it’s exactly as a classic French tartare should be, no tricks. But it’s executed perfectly and consistently every time. I don’t think I’ve ever visited without ordering it. Sometimes we order it to share as an entree and then I’d have it again for main with frites. I would hate to think of Melbourne without it.”

Andreas Papadakis, Tipo 00, Osteria Ilaria and Figlia
“A ride-or-die dish for me is the escargot at France-Soir. Served with freshly baked baguette to mop up all the garlic-herb butter, to me it translates to memories in France – feel-good food that is so full of flavour. It is a very traditional and simple dish, but it makes me feel so good in so many ways.”

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Julia Busuttil Nishimura, cook, food personality, and author of cookbooks Ostro and A Year of Simple Family Food
“When I think of a dish that I can’t live without, it has to be Napier Quarter’s anchovy and boiled egg on toast. Arguably it’s simple enough to just make at home, but there is something so wonderful about the way they do it there. I order it every time. Yellow-hued mayonnaise, slices of perfectly boiled eggs topped with anchovies and some herbs on perfectly grilled bread. A squeeze of lemon and you can’t lose!”

Marco Finanzio, Umberto Espresso Bar, Gigi Rooftop and Joanie’s Baretto
“Frank Camorra’s anchoa dish at Movida. Movida can lay claim to some genuinely groundbreaking dishes from when they opened all those years ago in Hosier Lane. The anchoa blew me away when I first had it, and it still does. Smoked-tomato sorbet, capers, salty Spanish anchovy on a crispbread. Damn, it’s bloody got everything. When I’m strolling around that part of town, I’ll still sometimes duck in for a cheeky beer and a couple of the anchoa. All these years later.”

Andrew McConnell, Trader House restaurants (including Cutler & Co, Supernormal, Marion and more)
“The absolute pinnacle and go-to dish that I cannot live without right now is spaghetti vongole. Olive oil, garlic, dried chilli, spaghetti and clams. The simplicity of the preparation of this classic, measured against the weight of the return, is incomparable.
First eaten in Italy many years ago, it is now my weekly indulgence at home and a must-try on the menu at Di Stasio Pizzeria. The key to this dish is quality ingredients, with the recipe requiring just instinct and careful timing. The only additions I recommend is to enjoy it with something cold, white, crisp and Italian along with some crusty bread to mop up the plates.”

Jerry Mai, Bia Hoi and Pho Nom
“My ride-or-die dish would be green jungle curry with braised beef ribs. My favourite version is made by David Thompson. I’ve had many versions of this curry, but the version I had when I worked with David at Nahm in London blew my mind. The curry paste is pounded in a mortar and pestle, adding each ingredient to release the flavours properly. Then toasting the spices to release the oils and pounding that down to a powder. The flavours of the lemongrass, green chilli, turmeric and [makrut] limes marry together with the toasted spices, creating a complex and deliciously well-balanced curry. Then you have melt-in-your-mouth beef ribs; it’s just a combination that I’ve never forgotten and try to replicate at home when I’m cooking Thai. Of course, when David makes this curry, it is so hot it rips your tastebuds apart, as he loves packing it full of tiny green scud chillies. I love the heat though, so his chilli sadism suits me. To get my fix of this dish I go to Chin Chin, which does a similar version, but theirs is a jungle curry of steamed fish and diamond clams.”

Shane Delia, Maha, Maha East and Maha Bar
“Simple is never simple. There is so much love, honesty and passion that makes really bloody good simple food exceptionally hard. For years I have been getting my pho fix from a heap of joints around town. I Love Pho has been a weekly go-to for ages. But the mecca is Pho Kim Long. I have been rushing back for their clean, meaty and spice-driven broth for over 20 years. Rare sliced beef, beef balls and then I go to town on my personalisation with seasonings: lemon juice, a heap of fish sauce, chilli, herbs and bean shoots. And, of course, hoisin on the side to adjust when needed. That’s what I love about pho. It’s all about individuality. It’s clean and honest and revitalising. I could live the rest of my life drowning in three phos a day with great satisfaction.”

Mischa Tropp, We Are Kerala pop-ups
“If I was to die tomorrow, what would I eat tonight? Well, for me, that’s easy to answer. I’d be straight down to Pacific Seafood BBQ House for their barramundi: a whole live fish straight out of the tank and on your plate 10 minutes later, swimming in a pool of golden-brown soy and sesame oil and piled high with fresh ginger and spring onion. Add a half roast duck and the obligatory side of greens, and water convolvulus (spinach) with fermented bean curd, and it’s a meal to die for.”

Tony Tan, Tony Tan Cooking School
“If you ever go to Falco Bakery in Smith Street, Collingwood, make a beeline for their cardamom buns. Naturally fermented, these buns are made with freshly ground cardamom, so much so that eating them is sublime and borders on ethereal. But you must arrive early as they sell out before you have time to scoff one down!”

Hana Assafiri, Moroccan Soup Bar
“It’s za’atar, for many reasons. It’s so versatile, a blend of so many flavours and variations depending on the country of origin. Za’atar is a spice, a marinade and a main fare. By adding some extra-virgin olive oil, fresh bread is all you need to satisfy even the most discerning palate. Za’atar has a place at every table. The most impoverished will satisfy their hunger with a za’atar wrap; gourmet chefs use it as a gourmet spice mix that is earthy, tangy and savoury. Za’atar unites societies. I can’t live without it. A1 Bakery is always a reliable go-to.”

Hugh Allen, Vue de Monde
“At the moment, I can’t pass up a good pub parma and pint of Stone & Wood Pacific Ale, especially when it’s from a tap. I live in North Melbourne, so for a beer the Town Hall Hotel is a fun and quirky place. Also loving all the bakeries coming back: Falco, Baker Bleu, Bread Club – love all of them!”

Angie Giannakodakis, Epocha
“For me, the foods that I can’t live without are multiple; like summer tomatoes, feta, figs, amaranth greens and anchovies, would you believe. But there is one thing that almost makes me weep, and I think of myself when I was little in Greece – loving memories – and that is Attiki honey.

It’s a very simple thing. A good cut of bread, excellent butter (preferably goat’s butter) and a hefty spoonful of honey. So, what is it? It’s a honey from Attika, Greece, where the bees feast on thyme and flowers from the region. The flavour is zesty, with enough sweetness to balance out the scent of forest herbs, and a rich, darker golden colour. Put it together with bread and butter and you have a high-performing brekkie that will spark up your brain power and stain your day with irritating happiness … Your jar of Attiki honey is usually available at any good Greek deli. Please try this, then have it with Greek yoghurt, figs, cheese, the list goes on. Everyone deserves a happy moment; this is the way, believe me. It’s worth it.”