Helly Raichura is one of the most influential Indian chefs in Melbourne. She’s known for going on research trips throughout India, so she can showcase dishes from different cuisines across the country at her 20-seater Enter Via Laundry. We took five minutes with the chef to find out where (and what) she’s eating in Melbourne these days.
What’s your go-to spot for breakfast?
A love solo breakfast at Florian on Rathdowne Street. A cheese and herb omelette, a thick piece of toast and a nice long black is sometimes all you need for self-care and nourishment for a busy day ahead.
What about a drink and snacks?
My neighbour Bar Olo does cracking snacks and drinks. And it’s open late enough for me to head there after service. Anthony [Scutella, the owner] is personally going to see to it that you are snacking and drinking well.
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SIGN UPHow about lunch on the go?
Cold soba noodles at Cibi with some ginger honey tea. If I am feeling indulgent, I’ll also get cheesecake. (I almost always feel indulgent).
Favourite Indian restaurant?
I usually end up at Indian restaurants that are not listed or published anywhere. There is this subculture not known to many outside the diaspora – so behold.
I go to Honest in Dandenong for pav bhaji. A2B for dosa, filter coffee and appam. For North Indian food, I’ll head to Roti Boti, which I also visit during winter for makki ki roti and saag.
For jalebi, kaju katri, rass malai, gulab jamun, samosa and more, nowhere but Sweet India will do. Man-O-Salwa is my go-to for halal tandoori and slow cooked meats with fluffiest breeds. Tandoori Den is great when you ask them to make food with an “Indian level of spiciness”. For chaat and chole kulcha, I’ll head to food trucks in the west. Then Patel Paan for a digestif and the ultimate Indian palate cleanser: fresh betel leaf is stuffed with your choice of goodies. I could go on and on.
What’s your pick for the most underrated venue in Melbourne right now?
People should be queuing up for Keat Lee’s food at Lagoon Dining, a very important place in Melbourne’s culinary scene. The honesty of the food is genius, the detailed house-made sauces and stocks build perfect bites and make some of the most satisfying eats in Melbourne. My favourite dishes there are chrysanthemum salad with tofu and pine nuts, spicy potato salad, octopus skewers, anything Keat is cooking in the wok (which rotates seasonally) and a delicious glass of wine picked by Chris [Lerch].
What’s your favourite ice-cream or gelato shop?
Kariton – it’s such a revolutionary place. I love how in a gelato market dominated by certain stock standard flavours, John Rivera’s Filipino flavours are standing strong. Ube halaya with its blackberry jam and speckles of caramelised coconut curd, durian chiffon, and cheesy keso with little salty notes and crunchy wafers is just perfect.
Favourite bakery?
A1 Bakery has the types of goods I like. I want nice za’atar bread, a haloumi pide and pita bread with ful mudammas (Egyptian fava bean stew), pickles, dips, fresh tabouli and falafel. I am used to eating bread along with something more than butter or oil. It needs to be soft enough so I don’t struggle with crusts and A1 humbly delivers this. The hustle and bustle at this family-run place reminds me of India Coffee House in Kolkata, where an entire community – young and old, from different backgrounds – comes together. It’s a bonus that I can stroll around in the grocery section and take some goodies home, too.
Best wine list?
The most memorable wines I’ve had are from France-Soir. It helps when there are hundreds of bottles on the list and a somm who can pick just the right one for you.
If you’re recommending a venue for a date, what would you say?
I would start with some beautiful wine at Avani in Red Hill and head to Polperro for some more wine before settling in for hoppers at Many Little. I find it quite sexy to eat hoppers and curry with your hands on a date.
Where can you find your favourite dessert in town?
My heart jumps out of my chest every time one of my team members gets me tab tim grob, from SBT Thai Grocer. It’s crunchy water chestnuts coated in pink tapioca, jackfruit and sweet, salty and smoky coconut milk. We add ice and it sustains us throughout service.