Ben Shewry, who grew up in New Zealand, wasn’t the first non-Aboriginal chef to grasp the potential of native ingredients. What’s set him apart is his sensitivity in sourcing and using this produce, which he employs to both to connect guests with this country and share moments from his own life. Attica's degustations are unusual, world-recognised and utterly captivating. We’re blessed to have a restaurant of this calibre in Melbourne.

There are a lot of noisy dining rooms on this list. Minamishima's hushed, reverent atmosphere is better suited to the awe-inspiring knife skills of owner-chef Koichi Minamishima and a few trusted offsiders. They work with both local seafood and fish flown direct from Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo to produce peerless sushi, sashimi and more. Each meal is omakase-only.

Is it a wine bar or a restaurant? No one has ever been able to answer this satisfactorily. What we can say is that this industry favourite is equally good for pre-dinner drinks, big special occasion dinners and spontaneous nightcaps. Chef and co-owner Dave Verheul does extraordinary things with his ferocious redgum-fired oven. And the wine-loving floor staff, including business partner Christian McCabe, will guide you through the list with wit and sensitivity.

This sequel to one of Sydney’s top restaurants has the same magic, but with the distinctly Victorian spin. Descend into the smart basement for fire-driven European cuisine, plus a renowned charcuterie program.

Hidden in a city carpark, this Thai street-food spot has become a cult Melbourne favourite. Brave the queues for aromatic boat noodles, spicy papaya salads, crying tiger (slow-cooked and grilled beef brisket), mixed Thai hotpot and more. Plus, BYO wines from the natural wine shop next door.

Just 20 diners a night are admitted to this inimitable Indian restaurant, where owner-chef Helly Raichura cooks vibrant banquets faithful to regional Indian cuisines using top-quality local produce and native ingredients.

Restaurants don't get any more personal than this 25-seater from chef Julian Hills, who created all the plates himself. On top of them, he combines rigorous European technique with native ingredients and Eastern philosophy for dishes such as smoked blue mackerel marinated in honey and white soy, then aged for a week in beeswax. Experience it all over four, five or eight courses, with optional pre-drinks at the drop-in Navi Lounge.

Gothic vaulted ceilings, stained windows and solid granite columns define this grand brasserie, in the former Melbourne Stock Exchange. Order freshly-shucked oysters from the raw bar, top-grade beef and cheese from the roving trolley.

New York’s steakhouses have a look and taste, yes, but they’re also a feeling – a certain swagger, and celebration of culinary excess. Grill Americano has it nailed like nowhere in else in town. Grab a seat at the colossal 14-metre marble bar, let the white-jacketed staff bring you a signature highball Americano (with a segment of chocolate-coated mandarin), then tear into a Josper-grilled T-bone the size of a Frisbee. The handmade pastas and sides are equally superb.

Italian is Melbourne's most widespread and essential cuisine. It's not at all fancy, but Tipo nonetheless manages to stand out from the enormous pack. Years down the track, it's still beset by queues of people keen to get a taste of its simple yet meticulously assembled pastas. Arrive early – very early – if you don't have a booking.

This seaside institution, founded in 1989, has never lost its shine. Current executive chef Jason Staudt continues to do magical things with blindingly fresh seafood; sommelier Wil Martin has the crisp whites and perfumed light reds to match; the tablecloths are resolutely starchy; and that sparkling view is as magnificent as ever. We can think of no better spot for a long lunch.

If you’re after the gold standard for Cantonese cuisine in the city, look no further. Flower Drum’s been serving it since 1975. Its low-lit, seductive ambience and consistently impeccable service are reasons to visit alone.

Gaea is a degustation-only restaurant with room for just 16 guests. There's an intense focus on local ingredients, expressed through eccentric riffs on classic European techniques. You might find anything from cured wallaby to brined and charred dandelion flowers served with a pumpkin puree made from fermented pumpkin juice.