Neptune

Neptune is by Nic Coulter (Young Hearts) and Simon Blacher (Hanoi Hannah, Saigon Sally and Tokyo Tina) and brothers Dave and Michael Parker (Pastuso and San Telmo).

The playful menu honours seafood in all its forms. Bring your crew and order share-friendly plates of prawn cocktails, octopus carpaccio, salmon tataki and roasted sardines. Or, tuck into a whole Murray cod grilled with soubise sauce and cavolo nero.

The other highlight is the menu’s grilled section, which features protein-heavy mains like rump steak, a whole chicken or a whole fish. Slather them with your choice of condiment (like zhoug, horseradish cream or pepper sauce) and a side (think classic fries or leafy greens). Add a potato salad or bright panzanella for freshness. As for dessert, there’s a standout lemon tart with ruby grapefruit that every fork at the table might dive into.

As for drinks, ask the team to suggest a drop from the tight yet considered wine list – which spans Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Italy, France and beyond. And you might expect harder-to-find varieties like furmint, a white wine from north-eastern Hungary.

The two-storey, 140-seat interior is low-lit and moody, with warm lighting, dark timber furniture and black ceilings that contrast with exposed-brick walls.

There’s footpath seating, and various areas to settle into for the night: bar stools, tables and chairs, banquettes and a lounge by a fireplace. The team will even keep your un-finished alcohol in a whisky locker upstairs: buy a bottle and Neptune will keep it safe until your next visit.