“Revelry” might be the word of the year in Australian fashion. The celebratory mood taking over catwalks at the 2023 edition of Afterpay Australian Fashion Week was matched by a number of big occasions.
First, we have some of the firsts: Alemais opened the week with its dazzling runway debut, Denni Francisco’s label Ngali was the first First Nations brand to hold a standalone show at AAFW, and Blanca also staged its inaugural runway presentation. Melbourne brand Joslin and Auckland’s Maggie Marilyn joined the schedule with off-site events backdropped by some of Sydney’s best-loved coastal locations (and brilliant sunsets to match).
The Innovators showcase brought the work of six Fashion Design Studio graduates to life on the runway for the first time, too. Eden Me-Tal, Catherine Caldis, Christopher Daod, Donovan Darling, Georgia Robinson and Monique Menezes are proof the future of Australian fashion is bright.
When it comes to milestones, this year marks 10 years of Macgraw. Designers and founders Beth and Tessa Macgraw also cut the ribbon on the brand’s first appointment-only retail space, House of Macgraw, on Paddington’s William Street. Both Aje and Bianca Spender celebrate 15 years of business, and Gary Bigeni’s eponymous brand of wearable art turns 20.
And it’s clear that Australian designers are in a festive state of mind. Most of the Resort ’24 collections presented will drop in October this year, making them choice outfits for summer celebrations.
Bold, generous colour and dynamic prints were a common theme. Sleeves were surprising subdued at Aje, but statement-making ruffles defined dresses made for showing off. EM on Holiday launched an occasion-wear capsule that saw signature printed pieces scattered with sequins and embellished finishing touches. Even the minimalism had maximalist appeal. A beaded coat opened Albus Lumen’s quintessentially pared-back show, Anna Quan delivered sculptural one-shoulder suiting and shimmering naked dresses, while texture took over at Blanca, as the brand moves on from the striped shirting that first shot it into the spotlight in 2020. Modern brides should make note of elegant options coming from Albus Lumen, Acler and Aje, too.
The street-style set showed up ready for the occasion, sauntering outside the shows with drama-filled looks all week.
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