Few chefs are as revered as Lennox Hastie when it comes to cooking with fire. The Sydney-based chef and owner of Firedoor has made a career out of pushing the boundaries of open-flame cooking, thanks in part to his experience working alongside the legendary Victor Arguinzoniz at Spain’s Asador Etxebarri. But he finds culinary inspiration and innovation everywhere, and a recent trip through Texas led him to some of the best sights, sounds and flavours the Lone Star State has to offer.
From smoky, slow-cooked barbeque to vibrant live music and sprawling farmers markets, Hastie’s one-week Texan adventure was packed with local gems. He gave Broadsheet the lowdown on the best things to see, do and taste in Houston, Dallas and Austin.
Houston
Houston, just off the Gulf of Mexico, is a melting pot of cultures, cuisines and rich cowboy history. All of which converge at one of the state’s most iconic pastimes, and a highlight of Hastie’s trip. “You’ve got to see the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo,” he says. “It’s a cultural part of Texas that’s still celebrated today. You’ve got everyone in cowboy boots and hats, and it’s just a phenomenal experience. It’s like the Easter Show on steroids.”
Beyond the cowboy spectacle, Hastie recommends Houston’s farmers markets in the city’s historic Greater Northside District. “I wasn’t expecting so much Mexican influence,” he says. “It’s amazing to see ingredients like prickly pears and nopal, and the variety of chillies is incredible. It’s not just about heat; it’s about the aromatic richness of the chillies.”
No trip to Houston would be complete without a stop at Truth BBQ, according to Hastie. At this local favourite, the queue to get in is as much a part of the experience as the meal itself. “It has this amazing vibe. People know they’re going to queue; everybody’s chatting and hanging out while they build up their appetite.” Truth pitmaster Leonard Botello IV is a leading figure of the new-traditionalist barbeque movement, which combines classic techniques and flavours with innovation and creativity, emphasises high-quality ingredients and regional influences in particular. Botello serves uncompromising Central Texas-style fare. “The barbeque is great, but they do amazing sides … The fried brussels sprouts with salted vinegar and chilli, or the tater tot potato salad really stand out.”
Dallas
Dallas, with its booming arts scene and lively districts, is a city where government grants for musicians and artists foster a rich cultural experience. “Dallas is super cool, especially the Deep Ellum district,” he says. “It’s quirky, full of murals, and it’s got this incredible vibe. There’s so much going on, especially with live music. One spot I loved was Free Man Cajun Cafe and Lounge, a small place with an 11-piece jazz band.”
Deep Ellum is also home to Pecan Lodge, a cult barbeque spot that flies slightly under the radar. Here, self-taught pitmaster Justin Fortun serves up some of the city’s best meats. “I didn’t know anything about it beforehand, but the owner is this larger-than-life guy,” says Hastie. “The brisket is smoked with hickory, and it’s right on the edge of being too smoky, but just perfectly balanced.” He also recommends an obligatory side of the smokehouse’s collard greens. “They were just amazing.”
This is also the place to embrace your inner cowboy, says Hastie. “If you’re in Dallas, go to Wild Bill’s and get yourself an outfit – boots, Stetson, the works,” he insists. “Anyone can be a cowboy in Dallas.”
From Dallas, you can take a quick day trip to nearby cities like Grapevine and Fort Worth. The former is a destination brimming with history, featuring beautifully restored buildings from the 19th and 20th centuries, alongside a vibrant wine scene with award-winning wineries and tasting rooms. It’s also a hub for artisans, where you can watch glass-blowing demonstrations, visit a blacksmith or explore a bronze foundry. In Fort Worth, meanwhile, you’ll find Billy Bob’s – the world’s largest honky-tonk, where up to 6000 cowboy boot-wearing fans gather to dance to live country music and soak up the true Texas spirit.
Austin
The state’s bustling capital is best known for its nightlife and live music. But according to Hastie, taking in the city’s natural beauty over a quick dip at Barton Springs is one of its major drawcards. “It’s this little oasis right in the city. With all the energy in Austin, Barton Springs is a great place to chill out and take a break. It’s freshwater, and it’s a beautiful swim. Every city should have something like it.”
That legendary live music scene is, however, not to be missed. Hastie recalls several nights spent at The White Horse, another honky-tonk that offers Texan two-step dance classes alongside its late-night music sets. “The White Horse is quintessential Austin,” he says. “Make sure you do a two-step, even if you’re terrible at it. The atmosphere is unbeatable.”
And when it comes to tasting Austin barbeque, Hastie recommends rolling up your sleeves and jumping on the tools. “Austin’s got so many places to eat,” he says, citing traditional joints like Franklin and Terry Black’s, which recently got a nod in the inaugural Michelin Guide Texas selection as a recommended restaurant. “But for a real deep dive, I’d suggest signing up for a masterclass … There’s a couple of places that offer them, but the one at KG is great.” Hosted by Cairo-born pitmaster Kareem El-Ghayesh, KG’s brand of Middle Eastern-inspired barbeque was also awarded the Bib Gourmand distinction by the Michelin Guide Texas – and is high on Hastie’s list. “You get to see behind the scenes, learn the techniques and, of course, eat some of the best barbeque in the world.”
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Travel Texas.
