Ty Bellingham acknowledges that Thai food isn’t new in Sydney. “It’s everywhere. You can throw a rock and hit a Thai restaurant,” the former 12-year head chef of seminal Sydney restaurant Sailor’s Thai and New York’s Kittichai tells Broadsheet.

Bellingham started his career under David Thompson (Long Chim Perth, Sydney), who is regarded as one of the world’s foremost experts on Thai food. In 2014, his Bangkok restaurant Nahm was voted the number-one restaurant in Asia by the influential World’s 50 Best.

Bellingham will bring that expertise to Balmoral Bathers’ Pavilion, which has decided to transform its upstairs function space into a Thai pop-up for the next six months. “With Covid there won’t be any functions for the foreseeable future, so the space has been mostly empty,” he says.

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The bistro and the fine-dining restaurant downstairs at the elegant historic harbourside pavilion has been turning away guests due to social-distancing restrictions, so it made sense to add more space. Betel Leaf is also a nice contrast to the steak frites and mussels in white-wine sauce on offer at the venue – although Bellingham says many of his dishes will be familiar to diners.

“I’ve set a menu that I know will make people happy. We’re doing green curry king prawns with curry paste that we make in-house, and a classic pad thai which is a really special dish that people loved at Sailor’s Thai,” he says.

There is also plenty that’s unexpected. “One of my favourites is a Chiang Mai larb from northern Thailand with chopped duck breast. It’s very spicy. The larb most people are familiar with is from the Isan region. It has more lime juice and fish sauce, where this one is about spices: black, white, long and Sichuan peppers plus Vietnamese mint.”

Down the track he’ll also add lesser-known dishes such as khao soi, an aromatic, texturally complex northern Thai chicken curry-based soup with fresh and fried-egg noodles.

Bathers’ Pavilion has always offered more than what’s on the plate – and the views at this desirable address are some of Sydney’s best. Look out the window and you’ll see turquoise water glistening beyond a quiet beach and, in the distance, the north and south heads before the open sea. Every table at Betel Leaf takes advantage of that view – although the ones on the terrace will be the pick when the weather warms up.

Bellingham has had a long and respected career, but when he talks about Betel Leaf he sounds as enthusiastic as if it were his first venue.

“At the moment, with Covid, I’m very lucky to get this opportunity, because there are so many people struggling throughout the world,” he says. “So to be offered a brand new restaurant for six months, I feel very privileged. This place is a landmark with the most amazing view ever. I hope I can do it justice.”

Betel Leaf
Upstairs at Bathers’ Pavilion, 4 The Esplanade, Mosman
02 9969 5050

Hours:
Thu to Sun from 12pm
Wed to Sat from 5.30pm

batherspavilion.com.au