When a Greek matriarch calls the family to the dinner table, she shouts “ela! ela!” meaning “come, come”.

“It’s every mum’s calling card,” restaurateur Peter Conistis tells Broadsheet, two days before his new Greek restaurant, Ela Ela, is due to open. The modern take on a mezedopolio (an eatery with “mezes for the people”) is one of five venues at the reimagined Bristol Arms in the CBD. Now known as The Bristol, the iconic 1898-pub-turned-Greek-dining-and-bar-precinct is set over five levels, housing a public bar, a nightclub, a lounge and a rooftop souvlaki restaurant.

“A mezedopolio is like a tapas bar. The menu isn’t structured like entrees, mains, desserts; it’s sharing plates from light through to bekri meze. Those are drunken meze – the substantial dishes to eat after you’ve had a few drinks.”

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At venues including Eleni’s, Alpha, Omega and Ploos, Conistis spent 30 years building a reputation for his modern take on classic Greek food, showcasing imagination over tradition. Authenticity has never been his approach.

“Everything is inspired by Greek food – I want to respect and acknowledge tradition, but it’s my take. For example, the wood-grilled asparagus and broad beans come with my mum’s recipe avgolemono. It’s normally a [lemony] soup, but here it’s a sauce. We’re doing stifado [stew] with beef cheeks, caramelised onions and mushroom skordalia. The taramosalata dip is made with white cod roe instead of orange; moussaka is made with spring goat, and instead of eggplant, we’re using globe artichokes. Goat’s feta bechamel finishes the dish.”

Under some circumstances though, Conistis bows to tradition. “There are recipes that are so good you wouldn’t dare touch them. Like the spanakopita – that’s my mum’s recipe. I remember she’d handmake filo pastry and my dad would gather wild greens. Ours has spinach plus chicory, dandelion, endives, dill and spring onions, Greek sheep’s milk feta and lots of good Greek olive oil. She’s tried it – it got her tick of approval.”

Drinks at Ela Ela’s dedicated bar range from classic chilled ouzo – “for the purists” – to the unusual. The dirty Greek Martini starts with a tea made from tomatoes, cucumbers, green olives and feta brine. That base is mixed with Kastra Elion vodka, distilled from olives, plus vermouth. It’s finished with a Greek salad skewer. House red and white wines are served taverna-style, in half-litre jugs.

DS17 creative director Paul Papadopoulos is behind The Bristol’s redesign, which restored the facade of the building and transformed the interiors. Each venue is distinct, combining the building’s exquisite original features – like the timber staircase, wood panelling and pressed-metal ceilings – with contemporary finishes.

Ela Ela has a Mediterranean feel, with plenty of timber and white marble; and pastel tones bringing the 80-seat space together.

This year, Conistis has seen highs and lows. After 11 years at the helm of CBD restaurant Alpha, he was replaced by celebrity chef George Calombaris. A few months later, he opened the 350-seat fine diner Ammos in Brighton-Le-Sands, followed by Ela Ela. Ploos in The Rocks is still going strong.

When asked if he’s going to keep opening new venues, he smiles and answers emphatically, “Yes. All I can say at the moment is yes.”

Ela Ela

The Bristol, 81 Sussex Street, CBD
9556 3131

thebristol.com.au
@elaela.syd