As the crow flies, Staple Bread & Necessities’ new Curl Curl bakery isn’t far from the Seaforth or Cromer stores, and it’s got the same kind of tucked-away location that owner James Partington favours.

“When I first opened Seaforth, everyone told me I was mad because there was no passing trade and no one would find me,” Partington tells Broadsheet. “I’ve built the business around people coming to us; they appreciate what we do. I’ve always said bakery customers should come from as far as the smell travels.”

It takes confidence to open a business that deliberately avoids foot traffic, but Partington has good reason to be confident. His delicious, back-to-basics baked goods are well known to locals, and the stores from Cromer, Manly and Seaforth to Mosman welcome steady streams of customers until sold out.

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Every walnut-coloured, earthy loaf of sourdough and the super flaky, rough-puff-style puff pastry (that’s the base of sausage rolls, quiches and an outstanding vanilla slice) is made from stone-ground organic rye and whole wheat flour, of which a half tonne is milled every week. Ferments are long – dough for croissants and pain au chocolat ferments for 24 hours, then another 24 hours after lamination.

“We keep our staples pretty much the same across the stores, but Seaforth is the spot where we do more experimentation. At Curl Curl, it’s a really tight menu. We’re doing a great sausage roll that uses beef and butter from Copper Tree Farms. The butter goes in our puff pastry – it’s got a beautiful flavour and texture, and ideal water content. It results in a rough-puff that melts in your mouth. And with rye and whole wheat, there’s not as much gluten, so it tastes amazing.”

The new bakery looks just like the other northern beaches locations, with Partington leaning into a natural colour palette. “We’ve got stainless steel benches with marble fronts, and lovely dried flower arrangements. The idea is the bread and pastry are meant to be in the spotlight, they’re the colour.”

Curl Curl is Staple’s fifth location, but Partington still manages to keep the local feel – partly because he’s so hands-on. When Broadsheet catches up with him one afternoon, he says he’s been working since 1am, getting new ovens up and running. From week to week, he’ll travel between stores and the Brookvale warehouse, baking, milling bread and talking to customers.

The five shops have one contact number and when people ring or text, they get Partington on the phone.

“I love it. Last week, I baked four times. I’m usually on the bench shaping bread and rolling croissants, I mill about a half tonne of flour every week. It’s a real labour of love.”

Staple Bread & Necessities
142 Pitt Road, North Curl Curl
0414 525 151

Hours:
Daily 7am–1.30pm

staplebakery.com
@staple_bread