Surry Hills institution Forrester’s has new owners. Ben Carroll and Hamish Watts – the co-founders of Applejack Hospitality (Bopp and Tone, The Botanist, The Butler) – added the pub to their portfolio in early 2020 and reopened it for trading in November, after an extensive renovation.

“When we took over Forrester’s, the pub hadn’t been trading to its full potential for the last several years and it wasn’t in a good state,” Carroll tells Broadsheet. “It’s been this incredible local watering hole for almost 100 years. We didn’t want to change that essence, we just wanted to bring it into the modern day.”

The owners have given the building a $1.5-million makeover and split the pub into three separate spaces to drink and dine: Phylli’s, Public Bar and Upstairs.

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The Public Bar at the front is a good spot for a pint, and has retained much of the pub’s century-old character, with exposed timber beams and weathered hardwood floors. Phylli’s is a complete contrast – its bright dining room is filled with plants and dominated by a mural by Sydney artist Mielo. (It also continues Applejack’s tradition of naming venues after relatives – Phyllis was Carroll’s wife’s grandma.) It’s a good place to while away an afternoon, particularly with bottomless long lunches ($79).

Both the Public Bar and Phylli’s have received new menus. Both are packed with influences from North, South and Central America, which was developed by head chef Jon Barrios (The Botanist, Bopp & Tone) and Applejack’s executive chef Jason Robertson.

“Jon put together a menu that’s the best of the best,” says Carroll of the Phylli’s menu. “There’s a lamb barbacoa to share; an incredible tiradito, which is a raw [Japanese-Peruvian] seafood dish; and a grilled barramundi fillet with pumpkin mole.”

There are also vegan options, such as whole cauliflower finished with chipotle dressing and smoked almond cream, and a summery grilled peach, grapefruit and fennel salad. The lighter options go well with the new spritz menu developed by group beverage manager Lachy Sturrock.

“We want Forrester’s to be the home of spritzes,” Carroll says. For summer there are citrus options such as grapefruit, mandarin and blood orange, plus a ginger spritz made with Adelaide Hills Distillery gin, vermouth, fresh ginger, honey and soda.

In the Public Bar are snackier dishes such as crispy chicken wings with hot sauce, a Cuban sandwich and cheeseburgers, as well as heartier options including char-grilled sirloin and battered flathead.

As tribute to the venue’s past, $10 steaks (available on Mondays) are returning. as well as trivia and comedy nights, which will be held in the Upstairs space, which has been designed for entertainment (it also has comfortable booth seating and a separate bar). Where before punters might have enjoyed a pint of VB, Forrester’s is now serving craft beer from Grifter, Moon Dog, Feral Brewing and Mountain Goat (which opened a brewery and bar in Newtown in October). Wines have been selected with a focus on organic and sustainable drops from Australia.

Forrester’s is the 10th venue Carroll and Watts have opened together, so if Carroll doesn’t sound nervous, it’s because they know what they’re doing.

“The key to feeling calm is we had pressure on the builders and the team a few months ago, rather than at the last minute. And the pandemic taught us to stay calm and level-headed,” Carroll says. “But we’re really excited. Forrester’s is going to be incredible. It’s the best of Applejack.”

Forrester’s

336 Riley Street, Surry Hills
(02) 8033 2665

Hours
Mon to Wed 11.30am–11pm
Thu 11.30am–midnight
Fri & Sat 11.30am–1am
Sun 11.30am–10pm

forresters.com.au

This story was updated on February 26, 2021. Some details and menu items may have changed since publication.