“Jumbo” is how Taku Taku co-owner Louise Wong describes the pork cutlets at the new North Sydney katsu house she opened with her husband Wilson. Instead of the thinner breaded-and-fried slices of pork that are sometimes more panko than meat, Taku Taku’s are thick cut and juicy, like the katsu Wilson grew up eating in Hong Kong.

“It took a long time to get it right, to keep the juiciness after deep-frying,” Louise tells Broadsheet. “The key is the preparation before frying. Our pork is slow cooked for 24 hours, then rested for two to three days before we dip in the panko and deep fry.”

The menu delivers a handful of simple dishes made with great care. The pork and chicken tonkatsu are served over a base of rice with egg, donburi-style; with a rich golden-brown house-made curry or soba noodles; or sandwiched between slices of light-as-air shokupan. Salad bowls add roasted eggplant, miso chicken or yakiniku Wagyu to the line-up.

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“We want our customers to enjoy life, to enjoy their meal here. There’s no time pressure, they can have their food how they like, customising the flavours at our sauce station.”

Taku Taku launched quietly in May with lunches and early dinners, but recently added brekkie to the menu – featuring Wilson’s favourites from Hong Kong.

“Hong Kong-style French toast is different to normal French toast, which is immersed in milk and egg. We do it with a flavour sandwiched between two slices of bread – peanut butter, kaya jam, blackberry jam – so when you cut it open you see the filling inside. We’re doing these with bacon and eggs, and there’s also a dessert French toast version with crème brulée.”

And just as much care has gone into the specialty drinks list: matcha revved up with coffee; the Sunrise Espresso, where orange juice meets an espresso shot; a black sesame latte; plus a hojicha with coconutty notes.

Cosiness is in Taku Taku’s DNA. The name comes from “otaku”, a Japanese term for someone who loves watching anime, reading manga and playing video games – all while staying comfy at home. The modern space has dramatic wooden beams, high ceilings and brushed concrete walls interrupted here and there by bright bursts of primary colours. The logo, depicting a little boy with a tilted baseball cap, is inspired by the couple’s six-month-old son.

“When we were designing the logo, we were trying to think of something that inspired happiness, and that was him,” Louise says. "We want to build something that when he grows up, it will remind him of his childhood, like the food reminds Wilson of his.”

Taku Taku
Shop 2, 124 Walker Street, North Sydney

Hours:
Daily 9am–8pm

takutaku.com.au
@takutakukatsu