Sydney has plenty of restaurants with spectacular views. There’s Quay on Sydney Harbour, Bathers’ Pavilion at Balmoral Beach, Blackwattle Bay’s The Boathouse, Icebergs at Bondi – the list goes on.

Bayly’s, at Kirribilli’s Ensemble Theatre, also has a view, though it’s less well known. Next to the chain-link fences of a boat yard, it’s hidden and peaceful. Modest sailboats bob in the water and narrow, dilapidated docks stretch into the bay. Green and gold Sydney ferries in the distance are the only hints you’re a few minutes from the CBD. “It’s an undiscovered gem,” says executive chef Nathan Jackson. “If you stand at street level, you’d never know it was there.”

The locals know. Ensemble Theatre opened in 1958 and Bayly’s has long fed the theatre-going crowd.

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Compared to Jackson’s previous venue, Rozelle’s 3 Weeds, this 65-seat space is a big change. “It’s tiny, in a good way. What’s interesting about this space is its untapped potential. Before our renovation it looked like an old RSL, complete with an aluminium roller door over the bar, and we only ever catered to theatre-goers. We’re hoping to attract a different crowd.”

The menu changes every six weeks along with the theatre program. “We put a big emphasis on provenance, sustainability and ethical farming. We’re also supporting the local guys and girls as much as possible. Our bread comes from Grain Organic in Alexandria, butter from Pepe Saya in Tempe and barramundi from Humpty Doo in the NT,” he says.

From his tiny kitchen, Jackson plus a team of two create dishes with a strong seafood focus. There’s an incredible house-smoked king trout served with blood oranges and fennel. The delicious barramundi is butterflied and cooked in the oven in a house-made Thai red curry. For a more substantial feed try the beef oyster blade, slow-cooked for 48 hours and served with hearty cavolo nero and herb butter. The wine list follows the menu, embracing Australian producers such as Rob Dolan, Jim Barry and Hungerford Hill.

The recently renovated space is pared back and comfortable; there’s banquet seating and clusters of small tables. Large bay windows take full advantage of a charming view that features multi-million dollar houses and a small industrial pier. At night, lights from Bayly’s twinkle and reflect on the water. “The boat yard and the busted jetties speak of the history of the area,” Jackson says. “It’s a little bit of paradise.”

Bayly’s Bistro
78 McDougall Street, Kirribilli

(02) 9929 0644

Hours:
Tue to Sat, check theatre program for hours

ensemble.com.au/bistro

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on January 23, 2019. Menu items may have changed since publication.