The corner terrace where Paddington institution Lucio’s served testaroli al pesto, pounded and plated tableside for four decades, has been empty for more than a year. But now, Italian diner Civico 47 has opened in its place. Chef Matteo Zamboni is at the helm, offering an approachable menu served with great attention to detail.

“We want people to feel they’re visiting us at home,” he tells Broadsheet. “It’s like when you go to your friend’s place, they pull out the nice service and crockery for dinner. We don’t want people to have to overthink it. It’s like home; it’s relaxed, well-presented and tasty.”

The menu pulls less from Zamboni’s childhood in Brescia at the foot of the Italian Alps than it does from his time cooking at fine diners such as Ormeggio at the Spit, Pilu at Freshwater and Jonah’s.

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Delicate, almost translucent slices of carpaccio served with a rocket pesto, crunchy Brussels sprouts, macadamia nuts and vincotto is a classic Italian option. But pasta and mains incorporate ingredients beyond what you’d traditionally find on an Italian menu: ruffled mafalde noodles are served with bok choy, king prawn and tomato; the rich chuck tail flap comes with shishito peppers, celery and dates.

“I come from Italy, but I didn’t want to cook food from a specific region. I like a bit of freedom so we can say, ‘we like that ingredient, so we’ll use it’,” says Zamboni.

The wine list is big on Italian drops, with selections from Australia and France.

Although the layout of the corner terrace remains unchanged from Lucio’s days, Civico 47 (which means house number 47 in Italian) looks completely different. The famously yellow exterior has been updated to a bright cream with navy trim. Civico 47’s dining room is elegant and uncluttered – the artworks by celebrated Australian artists such as Sidney Nolan and Tim Storrier are gone. The floors are stone, banquette seating is a rich tobacco, and the unadorned tables are surrounded by leather and timber chairs. Across from the dining room is a moody bar done in shades of blue.

Lucio’s left big shoes to fill. “Were we scared or nervous by the fact that Lucio’s was there for so long? We have huge respect for what was here before. We’re not trying to replicate, we only hope that we will be around for as long as Lucio’s has been around,” says Zamboni.

Part of the key to that longevity, he believes, is to give customers a moment of quiet from the chaos of the world.

“You read the news right now: there’s war, there’s the pandemic, there’s the cost of petrol. I think people are searching for relief. We want to make coming to Civico 47 a bit of an occasion – but it’s uncomplicated, like they’re coming to a friend’s home.”

Civico 47
47 Windsor Street, Paddington
(02) 9189 3060

Hours:
Wed & Thu 6pm–10pm
Fri & Sat 12pm–3pm, 6pm–10pm

civico47.com
@civico47paddington