ACME

If you've experienced Mitchel Orr’s menus at venues such as Duke Bistro and 121BC, a few twists on the classics shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise.

But Orr is only one of the letters in this four-letter word - the A, C and E come from partners Andy Emerson (The Passage), Cam Fairnbairn (The Passage, Pinbone) and Ed Loveday (The Passage). Talk about a full-service hospitality crew.

The space comes complete with dust-grey walls, dark-wood tables and a small bar, plus a low-lit, private dining space downstairs. Also downstairs is a small, square bar island, where those waiting to dine can rest their elbows with a celery, rye whiskey, citrus and soda cocktail, or glass of wine.

The menu is absolutely focused, consisting of just seven pastas and a dozen or so smaller dishes. Start with Orr’s take on the baloney sandwich, which arrives with a dollop of tomato relish on a palm-sized, squishy, house-made white bread roll; or perhaps char sui ox tongue with turnips. Pasta selections include unfamiliar varieties such as the shell-like malloreddus and tubular strozzapreti. More common pastas such as macaroni are made exciting again with pig’s head and egg yolk.

The beverage expertise of the ex-Passage crew means a few more obscure liquors, beers and wines are showcased, including a Normandy cider, sake, umeshu and sherry. Five fresh cocktails feature are particular fruit or fresh ingredient, such as beetroot. Wine pairings can be offered on request.

A recipe from ACME is featured in The Broadsheet Italian Cookbook. Buy your copy at shop.broadsheet.com.au.