“The Fun Has Been Lost”: How 16 Melbourne Restaurateurs Really Feel About the End of Lockdown

Nineteen months ago Broadsheet surveyed 360 restaurant, cafe, pub and bar owners around Australia as the first wave of coronavirus crashed over us. While there was plenty anxiety in the ranks, it’s hard to imagine anyone truly understood what an ordeal was still to come.

A few days later we zoomed in, to Melbourne, where despairing restaurateurs including Kate Bartholomew (Coda, Tonka) and Christian McCabe (Embla, Lesa) watched their trade drop off a cliff and called for the government to step in.

Months later, as the second wave subsided and the state government plotted a way out, we heard from 25 other Melburnians about the road map, and how it would impact them and their business.

And in December, before anyone had ever heard the phrase “Delta variant” and it looked like Australia had maybe tamed Covid, we surveyed another 30 influential restaurateurs to ask, Can the Australian Hospitality Industry Bounce Back in 2021?

Now, on the glorious day Melbourne exits lockdown 6.0, the vaccine rollout hitting critical targets and 19 gruelling months of hindsight, it seems right to check the industry’s pulse for what we sincerely hope will be the last time.

We asked 16 leading restaurateurs seven open-ended questions about the health of their business and the industry, and what’s kept them going up until now. We present their answers here, lightly edited for length, clarity, spelling and grammar. In some cases where several similar answers were supplied, we selected the most insightful and concise only.

Skip to question:

Are we out of the Covid woods yet? Why or why not?

No, unfortunately. Coronavirus still has the hots for us and worse yet, Covid stalker vibes are coming in strong.
– Kate Bartholomew, co-owner, Coda and Tonka

It’s hard to have 100 per cent confidence that we’re out of the woods, but looking at what’s happening around the world, we’re pretty confident there are good times ahead for our industry.
– Justin Joiner, co-owner Stomping Ground

Yes. Obviously vaccination was key. There’s no choice now but to get on with things and live with it. The alternative is pretty shit.
– Marco Finanzio, owner, Umberto Espresso Bar and Joanie’s Baretto

No. What this last 18 months has shown is that there’s no certainty in regards to this pandemic. While vaccination rates are incredibly high, there are so many impacts and ripple effects that will no doubt continue to affect us.
– Rebecca Feingold, owner, Goldy’s Tavern, Toasta

No way. With the current restrictions regarding capacity and mandates for hospitality, it’s an ongoing battle.
– Khanh Nguyen, co-owner, Sunda and Aru

Haha noooo! Now we enter the terrifying “living with Covid” period that the rest of the world seems to be adopting. Everyone I speak with has a split personality about it. We’re all over lockdown, but the idea of reopening when it’s worse than it has ever been is scary as hell. I hope I’m wrong, but the next few months will see spikes in cases, deaths and business closures.
– Aaron Donato, co-owner, Pie Thief, Bar Josephine, Trouble in Dreams

We’re certainly not. This industry will be foraging in the dark for a while yet. The impact that lockdowns have had, and may continue to have on hospitality, will be felt for years to come. Ongoing restrictions, staff shortages, reduced tourism – the uphill battle continues.
– Zara Madrusan, co-owner, the Everleigh, Heartbreaker, Bar Margaux

Not yet. We need to wait till the government announces reduced restrictions when we reach our vaccination targets. It’s going to take everyone doing their bit to get us to open up again.
– Nornie Bero, owner, Mabu Mabu, Mabu Mabu Big Esso

I don’t think so. There’s such a flow-on effect, more than just the economic impact. We’re also suffering a staffing crisis.
– Hannah Green, owner, Etta

I definitely don’t think we are. The density of the forest is thinning, and we’re able to see some light shining through the tops of the trees. But with this new terrain will come new challenges, especially navigating the vaccination requirements. It’s going to be a balancing act of making sure all requirements are met and enforced, while creating and delivering a friendly and enjoyable environment.
– Glenn Mill, co-owner, Hampton Wine Co, Abbiocco

No, as the state government has indicated that restrictions, interventions and segregation will continue into next year.
– Maz Salt, owner, Section 8, Ferydurke, the B.East

I sincerely hope so, but I’m not holding my breath just yet. Given the requirements of booster shots, the constant chatter of new variants, and the hesitancy among many about getting vaccinated, I think it’s too early to call.
– Matt Lane, co-owner, Mamasita, Hotel Jesus

Depends on how the government reacts if case numbers and Covid fatality rates escalate after easing of restrictions.
– Simon Denman, co-owner, Neighbourhood Wine, Old Palm Liquor

Not at all. For hospitality to successfully “come out” of the pandemic isn’t just a matter of getting bums on seats. There’s a heap of work for businesses to do to ensure their venues can overcome the next 12 months of trade. Density restrictions, the lack of tourism, the lack of international staff, the growing problem of delays on international shipping (including building materials, equipment, international products) are all seeing increased cost of goods which are affecting the bottom line of every business. There’s a lot of deferred rent that’s building up and will need to be paid back, plus the added pressure of each venue having to essentially police their own Covid protocols, like paying extra staff members to be Covid marshals. It will be a very challenging 12 months ahead for all hospitality businesses. Government assistance has provided a life raft for many businesses to keep their heads above the water. Although does this assistance continue post lockdowns? Or are we just left to fend for ourselves?
– Tom Peasnell, co-owner, Dexter, Takeaway Pizza, Kenny Lover, Dom’s Social Club, Nico’s Sandwich Deli, the Keys

How are you feeling about the health of your business – mental, financial, and so on?

Mentally we haven’t had a break. We’re all exhausted. We’re working in roles we didn’t sign up for, and for those that have stayed on, we’re looking down the barrel of what’s to come. We’ve all lost staff, more than ever before. We’re all looking for staff, who are now wanting salaries beyond what’s viable. When we reopen, no restaurant will be as it once was. I just don’t think the public understands what we’ve been through and what’s to come. Staffing is our pandemic. And there’s no vaccine for that.
– Matt Lane

The staff are the lifeblood of any hospitality business, and in this climate they’re feeling the pinch, emotionally, more than anyone else. Working in hospitality has always been hard. It’s very unsocial hours, physically demanding and stressful at times, although it was always worth it. It was worth it because it was fun! Over the past 18 months, the fun has been lost. Food and beverage training has been replaced by Covid health training. Reciting the daily specials to customers has been replaced by reciting the need for customers to socially distance. It’s no fun, and it’s why a lot of talented and passionate staff members are abandoning the industry, leaving a gaping hole.
– Tom Peasnell

We’ve done an engagement survey and there is a lot of anxiety across the board, particularly in the front-of-house team, which bore the brunt of customers’ frustrations last time we were trading. While most customers were great, a vocal minority didn’t want to hear about mask rules or checking-in, et cetera, and took it out on staff who were just trying to do the right thing. We’re mindful of throwing them to the wolves again and are ramping up security and introducing other measures to help.
– Justin Joiner

Bruised mentally, but more so financially. But I feel surprisingly optimistic, even excited, about our recovery.
– Kate Bartholomew

The fact that our group has made it through and will be opening its doors again is a testament to how strong and robust my businesses are. It’s a pointless exercise in calculating how much revenue has been lost. What gives me confidence is that we’ve managed to successfully navigate the last 18 months without any meaningful income. From a mental perspective, there’s some genuine trauma. I’d be lying if I didn’t admit that the lockdowns haven’t temporarily knocked the creative juices out of me. Now, it’s all about getting back to basics and keeping positive.
– Marco Finanzio

We’ve taken a huge hit financially, as most hospitality businesses have. Of course it has also been mentally taxing. It’s pretty devastating, walking past your closed venue day after day. Saying that, like with when we reopened after other lockdowns, the sense of community and excitement throughout the venue is really something special.
– Rebecca Feingold

I consider myself and my business fortunate, but also incredibly creative and resilient. We’d been working on a model based on multiple revenue streams before Covid hit. This put us in a strong position when the world shat itself. Providoor and its “finish at home” model were an essential lifeline for some of Melbourne’s and Sydney’s best brands. Not only a financial lifeline, but a mental one too. Having focus and purpose was very grounding. It kept our team together, which is the most important “health check” for any hospo business.
– Simon Blacher, co-owner, Hanoi Hannah, Tokyo Tina, Firebird, Neptune Food & Wine

My three businesses are all in various states of health. The staff at Pie Thief and Trouble in Dreams have had continuous or near-continuous work. Lockdowns have hit the Josephine staff much harder – their mental wellbeing from not working and not being allowed out has definitely suffered the most. Financially? Honestly, the state government grants have been very effective for businesses of my size. I can imagine that they are a little like pissing in a pool for larger format hospo, but they have kept us alive. And that seems to be the story from colleagues across the industry with similar-sized businesses.
– Aaron Donato

We are very fortunate to have a Covid-resilient arm of the business in the Everleigh Bottling Co. Focusing our energies in this direction has allowed us to stay sane, keep the lights on, and keep staff employed while the venues sleep.
– Zara Madrusan

I’m exhausted. I feel like I’m looking at a mountain that I don’t have the energy to climb, but in the same breath I feel very lucky as the business has weathered this storm – but the expense has been us. While our mental health as a team is strong, we all very much take it in turns to have our “moments”.
– Hannah Green

The business has been able to sustain this pandemic with some minor injuries, but thanks to government assistance we’ve been able to weather the storm. The staff for the most part have been happy and able to continue in some capacity for takeaway. There has been a small part of the workforce stressed and concerned regarding the mandatory vaccinations.
– Glenn Mill

As a whole, pretty positive about the future as we’re permitted to welcome people back into our establishments. The overall process has been quite exhausting and drawn out, however, and there will inevitably be a cost for that down the track.
– Simon Denman

What about the health of the hospitality industry as a whole?

It really depends on what we define as “healthy”. Was it healthy before ? I think the industry has changed forever.
– Simon Blacher

Kintsugi is the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold, the tradition embraces the flaws of its damaged past. Clearly we can’t use gold as we are all deep in overdraft, but you get the gist.
– Kate Bartholomew

I think the industry is resilient and will rebound, providing there aren’t any more Covid curve balls. We’re pretty bullish about a good summer and then maybe some sort of normality at some stage next year.
– Justin Joiner

We will see a lot of venues closing in the next 12 months. Government assistance will decrease, the lack of international staff and general hospitality staff, increased running costs, paying back of deferred rent and the threat of future city-wide lockdowns and spot lockdowns due to positive cases will all play their part. Although hospitality will never die, I think it will be a lot harder for independent restaurants, clubs and cafes to open, which is sad.
– Tom Peasnell

It’s been devastating seeing so many businesses that have not made it through. On the other hand, it has been really inspiring to see those who have reinvented themselves in such creative and unique ways to not only survive, but in some cases really thrive. It will be a really interesting time moving forward for the industry. I imagine there will be a wave of new hospitality operators, perhaps shifting from desk jobs after working solo for the last 19 months.
– Rebecca Feingold

The rebound will be fast with customers dining out in droves. Spends per head will also be up if this time last year was anything to go by. The challenges for hospitality will be on two fronts. The first is profitability. The cost of raw goods and labour is still increasing which makes it very difficult to turn a meaningful profit. The second is staff. With borders opening up, we’re hoping to see transient overseas workers fill some of the gaps, however long term, the massive shortage in career-minded professional hospo staff will be an ongoing issue for a while to come. But overall, I’m very confident that our wonderful and resilient Melbourne dining scene will be back to its best in no time.
– Marco Finanzio

There seems to be little recognition for inclining food and labour costs versus what customers expect to pay, which makes it difficult for the hospitality industry to survive.
– Khanh Nguyen

I dunno, there are swings and roundabouts with this. Obviously it has really, truly fucked some sectors, especially the CBD. Not so much fine dining, but those mum and dad stores that relied on international students and office workers – they’re the ones that are gonna suffer and have already suffered. But I think we’ll pretty healthily bounce back. Melburnians are by and large a relatively wealthy social bunch who love good food and drink. Now with everything reopening (and with the absence of travel), everywhere is gonna be booked out for months. We’re a curious and sociable city. We’ll be alright.
– Aaron Donato

Even those who have “pivoted” have still had their lives turned upside down, and what looks like an at-home delivery success story on Instagram is likely barely paying the rent. We’ve all been hurt, financially and emotionally.
– Zara Madrusan

As with many industries at the moment, we’re definitely under pressure, but I believe that we can bounce back stronger than ever. Melburnians love our food culture – it’s not going away anytime soon.
– Nornie Bero

There’s an incredibly strong sense of community in our industry currently, which is a really beautiful thing to see. I’ve formed some really strong friendships with other restaurant owners, who will continue to be close confidants for a very long time to come.
– Hannah Green

Hospitality will once again thrive and with more unique and creative offerings, as we have all had to think outside the box. I’m hopeful that the new wave of customers will have a greater sense of appreciation for the industry and its professionals.
– Glenn Mill

The industry is still suffering from a range of shocks. The live music and nightclub sector in particular has been closed for almost two years with minor periods of heavily restricted reopening in between lockdowns and needs urgent support. The industry needs a simpler and fairer way of doing business and support from government to retain its shape going forward, one that priorities independent operators, not multinational chains, casino and pokie operators or supermarkets.
– Maz Salt

I genuinely believe we’ll come back bigger and better than before. We saw a glimpse of that last year. You could see and feel that people had a renewed vigour for life, for seeing friends, for living each day. Sadly not all hospitality businesses have made it through. I have genuine sympathy for those that didn’t, as there have been times where I’ve wondered if we’d fall victim also. Now we just need the borders to open so we can have back our overseas workers, who are truly the backbone of hospitality.
– Matt Lane

Thinking beyond lockdowns, has the pandemic permanently changed the way your business operates? How?

Not particularly.
– Glenn Mill

Yes, it highlighted the need for diversification, something we will continue to develop going forward.
– Simon Denman

During the lockdowns we diversified and added so many different arms to the business, which means that we’re stronger as a whole.
– Nornie Bero

It’s certainly made me more conservative, particularly in regards to outlaying capital at this stage, as well as holding stock.
– Rebecca Feingold

Yes and no. If you asked me nearly five years ago when we opened, would we ever do takeaway, my answer would have been a very strong, “Hell no.” But out of total survival we did and it worked well for us. I think what it has done for me is give me a sense of not worrying too much about making changes.
– Hannah Green

Yes, we’re stronger, more innovative and certainly fatter due to daily butter chicken tastings. Thankfully we’re required to increase the gaps between tables.
– Kate Bartholomew

Ordering at table through the likes of Mr Yum is certainly a big one. We were already looking at introducing this pre-Covid, but it’s now become a significant part of our service. Customers are enjoying the experience and it’s definitely here to stay.
– Justin Joiner

Umberto Espresso Bar has always prided itself on being unapologetically old school with zero social media. That was until the pandemic hit. What the hell was I thinking?! It was literally the only way to remain connected to the community we love.
– Marco Finanzio

I see it as a double edged sword . Yes it was completely fucked and we all went into survival mode, but we have never and will never have the chance again to stop and really evaluate our dreams and goals for our restaurants. I think we can now move forward with clarity and confidence.
– Simon Blacher

At Pie Thief our focus has moved much more towards wholesale, whereas before the pandemic we wanted stores in the CBD and shopping centres. That’s not to say we won’t revisit that, but watching businesses being held at the whim of landlords during the pandemic was truly eye-opening. Ours have been lovely and we’re very grateful.
– Aaron Donato

Covid birthed the takeaway corner bar at the Everleigh and an outdoor deck, Everleigh Sq. We would never have dreamed of expanding the bar into the street, and certainly the council would never have allowed it under normal circumstances. Both are excellent additions to the venue and we have no intention of getting rid of them.
– Zara Madrusan

We’ve definitely had to diversify and look for new revenue streams. We talk about it a lot, as to how and what we’ll continue post lockdown. But if it’s anything like last lockdown, we became so busy instantly once again that we just may not have time. We’re looking towards a product range, and will likely stay involved with amazing businesses like Make-Out Meals.
– Matt Lane

I’d like to say no. I’d like to think that whatever it was that made your business a successful business pre-Covid would continue on into the future. Although in order to get there, we will need to make changes for sure.
– Tom Peasnell

Lots of red tape was cut during the pandemic, making liquor licence conditions more lenient and permitting more al fresco dining. Should these changes be made permanent? Is there more to be done?

Outdoor dining has been an amazing initiative. It just made me wonder what’s taken us so long. Any one who’s been to Europe would agree. Sadly, we weren’t able to offer this at Mamasita due to the tram stop right out front, but it definitely saved us at Hotel Jesus. I think it’s a non-negotiable that these initiatives keep going. It only brings us in line with what happens everywhere else in the world. It’s time Australia grew up.
– Matt Lane

The leniency of the al fresco dining and liquor licence condition has created more of a European atmosphere. That’s only benefited the industry by bringing more life and culture out of the shadows and into the streets.
– Glenn Mill

Cut up all the red tape that can strangle the industry, adopt a European approach to liquor licensing. Put more responsibility on the individual patron. Stop policing invisible red lines on the ground. Let’s dance.
– Simon Blacher

Absolutely yes. A culture that dines on the street late into the night is a safer, smarter, more fun culture. I’ve never felt less safe than walking through my suburb at night during lockdown and not having all the local businesses open with their collective eyes on the street.
– Aaron Donato

Absolutely. As an industry we’ve proven we can trade responsibly in a variety of different ways. It should continue to be easy to apply and receive licences, temporary or permanent, for creative uses of spaces, or different types of takeaway, or extensions to existing licences so that Melbourne can get its vibe back.
– Justin Joiner

Yes, the parklets in particular. They’ve contributed so much to the vibe of the streets in Melbourne.
– Rebecca Feingold

These measures should be continued at least until we can get back to 100 per cent open with no restrictions. I’m also all for the additional outdoor dining being permanent – we need to bring our city back to life!
– Nornie Bero

Anything that reduces the role of the licensing commission in our lives should be welcomed. The opportunity for Melbournians to be treated as adults should be celebrated. And venue owners are not criminals and should be subjected to reasonable regulation and oversight like any business, not a punitive regime of policing.
– Maz Salt

Yes, these changes need to be permanent. We want to brighten up our city that has been dormant for a long time. People want to go out and enjoy it. These changes have also provided venues with extra capacity and revenue, which is very important nowadays.
– Alejandro Saravia

I think there’s a model somewhere in between the two that could be adopted, where the process for obtaining approvals is easier and centred around a probationary period, instead of leaning so hard on council planning departments as a whole.
– Simon Denman

Tough one. This does not just affect the local business, but also affects local residents and neighbours. As great as having the extra space and the addition of easier entry of liquor licensing et cetera is, in order for a business to thrive locally there needs to be control and consideration of its position within its neighbourhood.
– Tom Peasnell

The past 18 months have been harrowing. What’s kept you going? Were there any specific moments of joy, humour or positivity with family, friends, staff or customers?

My family.
– Marco Finanzio

Just the good in people. My staff for just getting on with it, not complaining about being delivery drivers, kitchen hands and cooks, when they had never done any of these roles before. The Mama on Tour events were also amazing; the joy in people’s eyes when we handed out their food and they thanked us for coming out to their suburb. The $100 that a gentleman slipped into my pocket at another event and said, “We’re doing ok, buy your staff a pizza.” The bloke that left a six pack of beer at his doorstep with a sign that said, “That’s for you for risking your life by bringing me something decent to eat,” when we were right in the middle of that first lockdown and people were too scared to go out. The lady that knew she wasn’t meant to hug me, but did, when I arrived at her door with a banquet for one, when we were only offering banquets for two. It was like we all felt that we were in this together, and it was genuinely heart warming.
– Matt Lane

The positivity and willingness of our 100-odd staff to cop what’s come their way, and just keep going, has been extraordinary. They’ve been loyal and understanding of our plight the whole time, and we’re incredibly grateful.
– Justin Joiner

Our staff and their motivation became my energy. To keep showing up day after day , packing boxes, answering phones, sealing bags. It wasn’t what they signed up for, but they pulled up their socks and did it with a smile on their faces.
– Simon Blacher

Our children have been a great distraction. Our second child was born in May this year. Saving the businesses and raising two little ones has been deeply exhausting, but being with our little ones, who live permanently in the moment, has definitely been healing.
– Zara Madrusan

I stay positive no matter what. You have to be that force of energy for your staff and community, and really, we’ve had some amazing times during the pandemic, doing things I never thought possible.
– Nornie Bero

My staff. I honestly have never had a team like this before and I’m very protective of it and them. A lot of what we did for takeaway was to keep them going as much as the business. Nearly every single one of us don’t have our family in Melbourne so we really became that for each other when things got tough.
– Hannah Green

The persistence, patience, support and generosity of our staff group has been amazing. We recently organised Section Aid to raise funds for hospitality and music industry people suffering from lockdowns and raised just under $25,000 for care packages. The outpouring of support was amazing to witness and I am incredibly fortunate to be surrounded by people who genuinely give a shit. We are also launching a beer, called Knock Off, that will donate 50 per cent of profits to the same cause. It has only been made possible for the same generosity and positivity from staff and suppliers.
– Maz Salt

Who in the industry has inspired you these past 18 months, with their positivity, creativity, resilience or anything else?

Anyone who’s had a go and just kept evolving without stopping at any point.
– Simon Denman

Everyone. Everyone is having a crack. Some are working, some not so much. But it is amazing to see everyone not giving up and giving it a go! It’s not easy.
– Tom Peasnell

My head chef, Rosheen Kaul, got the job at Etta because I loved the way she tackled losing her job at Dinner by Heston after it closed, and then going into lockdown and self-publishing her own cookbook. Her neverending can-do attitude has really buoyed me over the last 12 months. The Bertoncello brothers at O.My also have been incredible to watch. They way they have dealt with keeping all their staff employed, on top of losing their restaurant in a fire and finding a new site and being open within week. Honestly, it was inspiring to watch them deal with such a horrible situation with so much humility and grace.
– Hannah Green

Khanh Nguyen. What that dude did with pastry during lockdowns, just for the fun of it, on his Instagram – my God. Both me and Scott [Blomfield chef and co-owner of Pie Thief] followed it fucking religiously. Also Ben Shewry is a fucking boss. His Instagram has never failed to brighten up my day. He is a very funny man. Exactly what you want from a human. Rocks a leisure suit in a way nobody has a right to. And a shout out to Future Food System, that’s been super interesting and inspiring to watch. Oh and Nornie with Mabu Mabu. She’s always doing cool stuff.
– Aaron Donato

Food writer Dani Valent has been a great source of inspiration and information on her socials, and Michael Bascetta and the Worksmith team have been incredible as well.
– Justin Joiner

So many of our industry sacked their staff, yet had third-party delivery platforms handling their takeaway orders. What the fuck? Therefore, I’m proud of the integrity and innovation of Coda and Tonka, as we never lost a job. And Dani Valent, Ben Shewry, and the Asylum Seeker Resource Centre.
– Kate Bartholomew

Dani Valent. Her advocacy, insight, and dedication to the industry has been unwavering. Her consistent updates of the specific hospitality news and requirements about handling this pandemic have been invaluable.
– Glenn Mill

Shane Delia at Providoor. He and his team created an amazing platform to keep the best brands in town connected to their customers. I also became a podcast junkie. The David Chang Show was my deep dive. I love the brutal honesty.
– Simon Blacher

Andrew McConnell for what he did with Meatsmith and the expansion train he’s stayed on, even in Covid, Shane Delia for his incredible job with Providoor, Joey from 1800 Lasagne, anyone and everyone who works on hospitality and stuck it through.
– Matt Lane

It’s been a great pleasure to see a good friend of mine Charlie Carrington successfully pivoting with his Atlas restaurant concept to Atlas masterclasses. And another good friend of mine, Daniel Giraldo, group head chef at Delia Group. I have seen Daniel’s tireless work through all this pandemic supporting Shane Delia’s Providoor, sharing his recommendations on how to make the most of that opportunity with other chefs. Also Angie Giannakodakis from Epocha and Elyros, is in my opinion the definition of resilience, working with her community of customers, bringing to their homes a warm hospitality experience, or setting up a sidewalk grill offering sausages, cocktails and, as always, an entertaining chat.
– Alejandro Saravia

At the risk of sounding conceited, I’m going to say me. I usually spend my time making sure everyone around me is ok and feels supported. I’m sure many of us in hospitality have had some dark days over the last 18 months, so to get up every day and get through every closure by being patient, showing strong leadership and remaining positive under incessant pressure has revealed a side of me that I’m very proud of. I’m taking the credit for this one.
– Marco Finanzio