The modest brown-brick home at 550 Nicholson Street blends into the background on the Fitzroy North thoroughfare. But, for Hamish Vaccari, it’s filled with memories.

From the ’60s, it was home to his Nonna and Nonno, who ran a catering business out of the back garage. “I remember [Nonno] cooking out there, drinking VB longnecks and teaching me how to make pasta and all sorts of other Italian dishes,” Hamish says.

“On Sundays, Nonna would go to church and Nonno would stay home and have his own kind of mass – inviting all his mates over and cooking for them.”

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Hamish lost his Nonno when he was 16, and his Nonna just two weeks ago – at 98. And he’s honoured their legacy by converting the garage into an Italian sub shop called Nonna’s House. “It was always a tribute, but now she’s gone it’s even more so.”

Naturally, the execution is as family-centric as the inspiration. Hamish, a former swimming-pool technician, now lives in the house. And he runs the eatery with his dad, Vince (the maître d’, Hamish says, who’ll tell you all about the family history), and his uncle Patrick. It’s a full-circle moment for the Vaccari trio, cooking and sharing food – and stories – in a place where so many of their family memories were made.

Just like Hamish did as a kid, you’ll enter through the side gate on Brookes Crescent – look for the bright red “550”. “Until I moved in, we didn’t have a key for as long as I can remember,” Hamish says. “Everybody would always go through the side gate.”

Then you’ll order your sanga of choice at the garage window, kind of like the OG Rocco’s.

The meatballs in the signature sub are made from a family recipe that Hamish says is “more than 60 years old and has never once been written down”. Four saucy orbs are lined up in a crisp sub-style roll and topped with a generous grating of parmesan.

There’s also a chicken (or eggplant) parma roll, and a pesto-mushroom number (the ’shrooms are stuffed with pesto Genovese, then double-crumbed and deep-fried). You’ll also find diamond-cut fries loaded with either rich bolognaise or creamy carbonara. Get yours to go, then take an easy walk to the nearby Eddie Gardens.

While Nonna’s House is currently only open on Saturdays and Sundays, Hamish’s plan is to eventually expand to five days a week, with the addition of weekly specials.

Nonna’s House
550 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy North

Hours:
Sat & Sun 11am–3.30pm

nonnashouse.com.au

This article was updated on November 9 to reflect that Nonna’s House is takeaway-only.