When Jake Cassar opened Mortadeli – Torquay’s exquisitely named Mediterranean deli that feels like it’s from another era – last year, there was more interest in sandwiches than smallgoods, which were sliced ahead of time and vacuum-sealed into takeaway packs for grab-and-go convenience.

But that quickly changed. Demand for sliced-to-order cold-cuts ramped up so much that Cassar opened a dedicated deli and grocer across the courtyard – or “piazza”, as he calls it.

It’s like a mini, modernised version of Brunswick’s Mediterranean Wholesalers – aka the Costco of Italian imported goods – right down to the chequerboard flooring, impeccably stacked shelves and potential for overspending.

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The deli cabinet is filled with around two dozen kinds of smallgoods – including salami, prosciutto and, of course, mortadella (try the smoked variety from Sydney’s LP’s Quality Meats). “A lot of the locals are still like, ‘what’s mortadella?’” Cassar tells Broadsheet. “But you’ll be pleased to know we’re training them up.”

Anything a decent charcuterie board calls for, you’ll find here: Melbourne chef Tom Sarafian’s popular hummus and toum, pates and terrines, a ton of imported cheeses, bread from Pane di Matteo, and fruit and veg from Kinsfolk Farm.

And there’s plenty of pantry-stocking potential, too, with products such as Ortiz anchovies, and Annalisa canned tomatoes and legumes. “We’ve got some local stuff,” Cassar says, “but we don’t wanna have what everyone else has.” Less commonly found, especially on the Surf Coast, is Martelli pasta, considered among the best pasta in the world, from a family business based in a small village near Pisa.

Mortadeli’s new spot is also home to local business Fishmonger Torquay, which adds ocean-fresh, ethically sourced seafood to the traditional deli and grocery items.

Back across the piazza, there’s been a development at the cafe, too: Aperitivo Prime Time. From midday, you can now get an antipasti platter with booze. The list includes fail-safe imported Italian red, white and prosecco, Peroni, Aperol Spritz and Negroni Sbagliato (made with sparkling wine instead of gin). Meanwhile, genius new signage – by Mitch R Signs – reads: “There’s Morta Life”.

Also new is an online store for the merch Cassar has been selling to Mortadeli diehards since day one, designed by his sister Kayla, a graphic-design whiz. Shop colourful totes and diner mugs with “Mortadeli” written in block letters, corduroy caps emblazoned with “There’s Morta Life”, and tees (on the back is a cartoon man riding a bike, except the wheels are logs of mortadella and he’s clutching a larger-than-life baguette in surfboard-like fashion).

Mortadeli
Shop 8 4-6 Gilbert Street, Torquay

Hours:
Deli and grocer
Tue to Sat 9am–5pm

Cafe
Mon to Thu 9am–3pm
Fri & Sat 9am–5pm

mortadeli.com.au
@morta.deli