Palermo

Palermo is named for Saint Benedict of Palermo, the patron saint of Sicily's capital, which shares the name.

And this venue celebrates the Italian influence on Argentinian food and Palermo itself - a vibrant neighbourhood in Buenos Aires.

The parrilla grill around which San Telmo revolves is part of the kitchen here, too. But the team has added an asado fire pit. Over mallee-root charcoal and ironbark logs, the team slow roasts Gippsland Suffolk lamb and suckling pig from Millbrook. There are also whole fish.

Meats cooked on the asado are sold in 250-gram and 450-gram portions. As at San Telmo, Palermo is also serving a number of other meat options - including various cuts of dry-aged O'Connor's beef - cooked on the parrilla.

Non-meat dishes include grilled cuttlefish with pickled mussels and potatoes; ceviche with jalapeño, olive, and fennel - borrowed from Peru but with an Italian flourish; and grilled carrots with eggplant puree, smoked almonds and brown butter.

The wine list stays faithful to Argentina with a large selection from Mendoza and Patagonia.

The huge space features marble benches and tan leather banquettes on plush red carpet, which is punctuated by black and white. It's contemporary with rustic touches in wood tabletops, bentwood chairs and exposed-brick walls and harlequin tiles. It also incorporates a hand-painted mural depicting the Tuscan countryside that builders uncovered when they stripped back the render on one of the brick walls during the renovation.