Sixty-odd years after the Doubleview Bowls Club was founded, the neighbourhood bowlo has undergone a dramatic transformation. But it’s not down to new turf or shiny new balls – the driving force behind the transformation is Jacob D’Vauz and Anisha Halik, the chef couple behind Special Delivery, a bi-weekly pop-up at the bowling club.

D’Vauz’s CV includes stints at Rockpool, Madalena’s, Tiny’s and Uncle Joe’s, and his fine-dining DNA is evident in the food he and Halik dish out.

“When we first started cooking here, we had a small clientele, and we definitely didn’t have anyone under the age of 30,” D’Vauz tells Broadsheet. “Now, we get upwards of 600 people every Wednesday and Friday for dinner.”

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Arrive early to snag one of the weekly specials, which typically sell out within 30 minutes of the kitchen’s 5.30pm opening and cost no more than $26. It’s easy to see why this unassuming suburban bowls club has become a go-to for many locals.

Dishes like oyster blade, slow-roasted for 12 hours until meltingly tender, are served either with a fish-sauce caramel glaze, mash and sizeable onion rings, or swimming in a satay sauce, which D’Vauz perfected in Bali while at Potato Head’s restaurant, Ijen.

Specials like scallop and prawn toast with curried mayo take their place on the chalkboard alongside bowlo staples like cheeseburgers. “We get proper beef mince from Balcatta butcher Troy’s Meats for the patties,” says D’Vauz.

The $23 fish’n’chips, prepared by fellow chef Halik, is another standout. “I’ve been cooking fish the same way since I was 14 at Landsdale Fish & Chips, where I worked for a decade,” she explains. “The owner taught me his secret recipe and, before he passed, he made me promise not to share it. Jacob doesn’t even know it.”

The fish, often barramundi, is tender and flaky with a golden, crisp batter, while the chips are cooked just as masterfully. Thick pickle slices add a refreshing and welcome zing.

The menu is both affordable – a family of four can eat well for under $100 – and approachable. It encourages diners to try new flavours. “One of the best parts of the job is seeing the regulars try something they wouldn’t normally, like kingfish crudo. For many, it’s their first time trying raw fish,” says D’Vauz.

A constantly changing menu means the kitchen can work with the freshest, best-priced produce from D’Vauz’s market visits. “I’m able to have more fun in the kitchen and be more creative than I’ve been in any other job, while still offering people an experience at an affordable price,” he says. “That’s the most satisfying part of this.”

With a young family of their own, D’Vauz and Halik understand the importance of accessibility. “Before we started at the bowls club, I was working three jobs, seven days a week,” he says. “We know how tough it can be. The fact that just about anyone can come here and enjoy a good meal with their kids is a big motivator for us.”

While the hospo couple has injected youthful energy into the club, long-standing members are also embracing the new vibe. D’Vauz points to one such couple, Rowdy and Sheila, who have been members for more than 30 years. “They come every week, sit in the same spot and get table service. On Fridays, they treat themselves to a special. Some weeks you’re nervous giving them a spicy curry, but they love it. It’s really special,” he says.

Doubleview Bowling Club
17 Shearn Crescent, Doubleview
(08) 9446 4322

Hours:
Wed & Fri from 5.30pm

@special.delivery.perth
www.theviewbc.com.au