Lo’

At Lo’, chef Tomas Bidios (also behind Tommy Tacos) goes back to the basics of US Southern fare. Self-proclaimed “chronic foodie” Bidios spent four weeks eating through America’s Deep South, sparking a curiosity with Southern food that would be the impetus behind creating the menu at Lo’.

The prime attraction is the dinner menu. The low-fuss proteins are smoked in a sizeable woodfired oven. There are pull-apart beef short ribs with hot honey, Jerusalem artichokes and pecans; a 400-gram Berkshire pork chop brined in a blend of tea and apple juice for six hours; and woodfired cauliflower steak with smoked baked beans. Using WA produce, small plates include woodfired oysters with casino butter, bacon and breadcrumbs; fried green tomatoes and creole remoulade; and fried chicken with miso maple butter with Lo’s signature smoke and fire.

The desserts are worth adding to your order. Sticking to the Southern theme, there’s hummingbird pecan pie served with peanut butter ice-cream and salted caramel, or a bourbon-spiked apple and cherry cobbler.

The extensive drinks list is packed with cocktails (including the fizzy, boozed-up riff on a Lipton peach iced tea), a curated selection of bourbons, and West Australian wines.

The space itself has good bones. The ornate ceilings, exposed brick walls, green leather booths and timber panels instantly make you feel at home. It’s the kind of dining room where you’ll order a dessert and a nightcap just to have an excuse to linger a little longer.