Baan Baan

Taking over the former Old Crow site on Newcastle Street, Baan Baan (baan means home in Thai) sees the Thai street food that cemented Bangkok Jump Street’s reputation in Perth’s market scene and raises it with regional Thai cooking and dishes owner Wanwipar “Dao” Thanasothorn grew up with.

So while Jump Street’s famous grilled pork skewers and roast pork and crackling salad have made it onto the Baan Baan menu, these signature dishes are joined by newcomers such as crisp crab meat rolls (deep-fried tofu skin parcels with Shark Bay crab and water chestnut); savoury fish custard wrapped in banana leaves and grilled (a cool riff on the Thai classic hor mok, which is usually steamed); and nam prik, the northern Thai dish starring raw vegetables dipped in a chilli relish.

That whole fish stuffed with herbs and grilled in banana leaf? A memory straight out of Dao’s childhood growing up on her family’s fish farm. It’s a deep menu, and one best tackled with a broad sampling. The drinks package is equally considered and stars spice-sympathetic wines (from WA, mostly), cocktails and beers.

The restaurant’s aesthetic speaks to Dao’s sharp eye and past life as a creative. Subtle splashes of colour – stained glass features, cute and colourful flowers in glass bottles on tables – beautify the space. Indoor plants and dark timber contrast with the room’s off-white walls. A giant mural of Siamese fighters serves as a focal point.