For Raffaele Lombard, the perfect Negroni is transcendent, and as far as he’s concerned, until now it hasn’t existed in Sydney.
The recipe for the classic version of the drink is deceptively simple: equal parts gin, vermouth and Campari, plus an orange twist. But like any simple recipe, only top-shelf ingredients will yield the best results.
“My recipe has been adjusted from the classic Negroni and I’d prefer not to share it, but the key is good-quality vermouth,” Lombard tells Broadsheet. “All my Negronis are served on very rare, quality vermouth from Italy.”
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SIGN UPOn Wednesday, in the middle of Negroni Week, Lombard will officially open Bar Conte, Sydney’s first dedicated Negroni bar, in Surry Hills. Named for Conte Camillo Negroni, the inventor of the drink, the 38-seater celebrates the Italian ritual of aperitivo and digestivo taken before and after meals, respectively. The bar brings to Sydney a part of Lombard’s native Italy that he misses.
“I’m from the Sorrento coast. We grew up in bars as kids. We drank crodino [a non-alcoholic spiced fruity, citrus drink], chinotto, and the old men next to us had Fernet-Branca [amaro]. I used to wonder about those old men drinking strong drinks during the day, but I realised as an adult, they were having digestivo after a meal.”
Meals at Bar Conte are overseen by chef and co-owner Steven De Vecchi (ex-The Apollo). The menu consists of small plates, some with an obvious nod to the celebrated aperitivo, and others that complement the drink. Smallgoods from Pino’s Dolce Vita in Kogarah include Negroni-infused salami, prosciutto di Parma and bresaola, and there’s Negroni-infused dressing for the appellation oysters. Burratina is served with ’nduja and friariello, a bitter green that’s an Italian staple.
Bitter and slightly medicinal with a fruity balance, a Negroni can be a challenging drink for anyone not accustomed to its complex flavours. Lombard says to enjoy the ritual.
“The aperitivo stimulates your appetite so you can enjoy your meal. When I drink it, I know that I’ll be having dinner, followed by a digestivo afterwards. You sip and enjoy. It’s good for your wellbeing.”
Although Negronis are the star of the show – there are 20 Negronis and Negroni adaptations (including a Negroni Bianco and a barrel-aged Negroni) on the menu – the digestivo selection is equally special. On offer is Lombard’s personal collection, including bottles rarely found in any bar here or in Italy – for example Jefferson Amaro Importante with bergamot, rosemary and eucalyptus, and Amaro Camatti by Umberto Briganti, with gentian bitters, quinine, menthol and 28 other mountain botanicals. Lombard feels a combination of benevolence and reluctance about sharing his collection.
“Sometimes when I see one of the bartenders opening the bottle, I think, I would like to taste them first. But of course I can’t do that,” he says.
The concept for Bar Conte is a 1920s-style Tuscan wine bar with a bit of American speakeasy thrown in. Those inspirations manifest themselves in a comfortable, sexy space seating 38. The green Italian-marble bar runs from the main room into the open kitchen and the brick-red walls are decorated with Italian film and drink artwork. “We want everyone to feel comfortable when they’re here. It’s a place to hang out.”
During the day Bar Conte becomes a spot for coffee by Ona, plus classic biscuits imported from Italy, and pastries.
Broadsheet speaks to Lombard the morning after the soft opening, and he’s all smiles. “We were packed last night. It was a soft opening, but not that soft. Tonight and tomorrow we’re fully booked. This has been a dream I’ve had for many years. You can’t find anything like it in Sydney.”
Bar Conte
340 Riley Street, Surry Hills
Hours:
Mon to Thu 4.30pm–late
Fri to Sat 11.30am–late