Nope, you’re not imagining it. Absolutely everyone is in Japan right now. Australians flocked to the country in huge numbers this year, thanks in part to the hallowed combo of a strong Aussie dollar against the yen and a parade of unbelievably cheap airfares from the budget carriers.

For those of us who didn’t make it to Japan this year, we can always take solace in this: our Japanese dining scene is one of the best in the world. If you want to spend money on sushi, sake, ramen, robata or any combination thereof (and beyond), you can at least send your tastebuds on a trip to Japan, regardless of your budget.

And the options continue to grow. A recent addition is Azabu Group’s splashy Prefecture 48, which packs six distinct offerings into a glowing heritage building on Sussex Street in the CBD. Of the lavish options there, the eight-seat omakase counter is the one my Japanophile friends seem to be talking about the most.

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Why? Because sitting at a timber bar and eating sushi prepared by a master chef is about as close as you’ll get to the feeling of being in Japan without leaving the country. Yes, you’ll pay out the nose for the privilege – but the recent explosion of omakase counters in Sydney is a strong message to the world: our dining scene is just as dynamic and thrilling as any other global city. Truly, there’s never been a better time to eat here.

That’s exactly what lured Akira Horikawa to the counter at Prefecture 48. He’s relocated to Sydney after spending 15 years at the legendary Ginza Kyubey, one of Tokyo’s most prestigious omakase counters and the birthplace of gunkan (battleship) sushi: a ball of rice wrapped in nori and topped with a variety of raw seafood, but typically uni (urchin) or ikura (roe).

Gunkan is a foundational style of Edomae sushi, and it’s arguably the thing that 90-year-old Kyubey is most famous for. That, and its fierce commitment to omotenashi, the Japanese philosophy of impeccable hospitality.

“While technical skills are crucial, true mastery lies in consistently delivering an exceptional experience to everyone who walks through the door,” he tells me via email. “It’s a philosophy I carry with me in every service I provide.”

Horikawa shares the P48 counter with Tomoyuki Matsuya, one of Sydney’s leading Sydney sushi chefs. Together, they’re what makes omakase at Prefecture 48 especially thrilling. The experience they deliver is rooted in Edomae tradition, and sees imported Japanese ingredients like kombu married with local ones such as abalone and urchin from Tasmania.

Horikawa said one of the biggest takeaways from his time at Kyubey is that tradition and innovation can co-exist behind the counter. Now that he’s in Australia, he plans to incorporate native herbs and citrus into his daily menus.

When I visited, there was jiggly chawanmushi egg custard to start, followed by chargrilled Hokkaido scallops served on a sliver of nori. Glistening petals of cuttlefish and fatty tuna were brushed delicately with soy and served as nigiri alongside freshly pickled ginger.

Then there was Kyubey’s famous little ship, which sailed into the mouths of eight diners who ate the exquisite thing in complete silence. At that moment, absolutely everyone was in Japan.

Omakase at Prefecture 48

230 Sussex Street

(02) 8552 2888

Hours:

Tues to Sat: 5.30pm–late (two seatings)

p.48.com.au