“People get confused when I say we’re serving elevated Filipino food,” says Miko Aspiras, the owner of Darlinghurst sweet shop Don’t Doughnuts and Bakery. “They think it’s going to be fusion, but it’s not fusion. It’s still very rooted in the essence of Filipino food but using high quality ingredients and applying techniques we’ve learned in our years working as chefs.”
Aspiras is talking about the newest addition to his recently refurbished Darlinghurst venue: Takam, an eatery serving Filipino cuisine that until now has done home delivery only.
“The owners of Takam and I are friends,” Aspiras says. “After visiting Manila and getting inspired by the food scene over there, they decided they wanted to open a bricks and mortar store. My Darlinghurst shop was too big for just a bakery. Sharing the space made sense.”
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SIGN UPThe businesses are independently owned. Aspiras opened Don’t during the pandemic, applying his skill as a classic pastry chef to making sourdough-brioche hybrid doughnuts. Don’t Doughnuts are chewy and have an understated sweetness that allows fresh ingredients to be the heroes. There’s a glaze doughnut made from Madagascar vanilla beans, a Vegemite-spiked butterscotch doughnut and one made with strawberries and cream.
Chefs and long-time friends Francis Dela Cruz, Aileen Aguirre and Lesley Roque also opened Takam during the pandemic. Their food is all about showcasing “their culture, nostalgia and passion for the traditional flavours and techniques of Filipino cuisine”, Aguirre says, but delivered in way that’s “elevated, harmonious and personalised” and that also makes use of native ingredients.
“While we often hear that Filipino cuisine is the next big thing, the reality is that it has always been there,” says Dela Cruz, who is determined “to bring the Philippines’ rich culinary heritage to the forefront of the mainstream market here in Sydney.”
“We aim to showcase the unique flavours and cultural influences that make Filipino cuisine a standout,” Aguirre adds. The chefs focus on “recreating the slow, comforting, hearty food profile that is a hallmark of Filipino cuisine” while is also displaying carefully honed technique.
The Takam and Don’t menus are surprisingly harmonious, and the collaborators have plans to add a dinner service with a dessert menu that goes beyond doughnuts.
Aspiras says settling in for a long brunch is the best way to visit the eatery. “Start with our pulled pork, Sriracha mayo and slaw focaccia and a chicken empanada from the Don’t menu. Then Takam does a vegetarian version of okoy, which is traditionally a shrimp fritter from the north.” Takam’s okoy, made with seasonal vegetables, is served with sinamak, a spicy vinegar dip.
For mains, Takam does longganisa (sausage) served with garlic rice. The Vigan province version of the ubiquitous sausage has a casing with just the right amount of snap, and the tender sausage meat is infused with plenty of garlic. There’s also beef tapa, which is beef marinated in soy, vinegar and the juice of calamansi (a tart, juicy citrus fruit). Traditionally served for breakfast, the two dishes come as silog – meaning they’re served with sinangag (garlic fried rice) and an egg, plus other accompaniments.
Chicken inasal is Takam’s signature dish.
“It’s marinated with lemongrass, charcoal grilled, served with condiments and garlic rice, of course. Everything has to have rice,” Aspiras says. “It seems like a lot of food, but I suggest people share it. That’s how we eat – we always share food.”
Doughnuts round off the meal. Aspiras recommends the popular Basque cheesecake or the pistachio custard with a cup of coffee by Victorian roaster Zest.
Aspiras, who owns a group of gelato and dessert shops in the Philippines, is excited to bring a modern take on Filipino cuisine to inner Sydney. “I’m so happy to represent Filipino food in Darlinghurst.”
And for the Takam team, a bricks and mortar presence is particularly meaningful.
“Transitioning from take home-meals and pop-up events – starting as a pandemic kitchen – to having our own shop has been amazing,” Aguirre says. “We’ve been able to engage with the locals and our patrons, creating memories through our food and highlighting Filipino cuisine in a much more personalised way. It’s given us the chance to talk more about our food and its cultural significance.”
Don’t Doughnuts and Bakery x Takam
324 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Hours:
Tue to Sat 7.30am–3.30pm
Sun 8am–5pm
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