The North Fitzroy Arms, now owned by Julian Downing, reopened three weeks ago after extensive renovations, just in time to celebrate its 150th anniversary.

The revamp is part of a larger trend of fresh blood breathing new life into suburban pubs. But unlike counterparts such as the newly renovated Italian-inspired Gertrude Hotel, or the ode to New York City that is the CBD’s Morris House, the Arms looks locally and celebrates everything great about the good old Aussie pub.

“I think it's actually more interesting than trying to do something else,” chef Barney Cohen (ex-Bar Bellamy, ex-Nomada) tells Broadsheet.

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The front of the bar has remained much the same, retaining the pre-existing deep red and off-white colour palette; there are TVs so AFL games can be aired live; and the walls are filled with footy memorabilia like jerseys and framed photos from iconic moments, including the 1979 Grand Final.

Therefore Studio (Marquis of Lorne, Clover) helped redesign the dining room and pool room in a similar vein, with art deco lighting and a mix of vintage and contemporary local art.

And, in case anyone is worried, the beloved pool table is still there. “The only thing anyone asked me when we were doing renovations was, ‘Are you keeping the pool table?’” says Downing.

Rounding out the venue is a beer garden that can fit 45 and will soon be equipped with a retractable awning and heaters for the cooler months.

Cohen says the dining concept is elevated pub food, and the menu is largely inspired by dishes that would have been popular throughout the venue’s life cycle.

“Before World War II, it was a very Anglo British area,” he says. “All the pub menus would have been much the same. And since then there's been a lot of European migration here – Hungarian, Greek, Italian – so there's little bits of that coming through, too.”

Take, for instance, fish’n’chips. Despite its roots in the UK, early Greek immigrants to Australia helped popularise the dish here and cement it as a fixture of what’s now considered “Australian” cuisine. It’s a staple at many pubs – often prepared with flake or cod – but Cohen’s take uses whole butterflied garfish, a more sustainable local alternative.

The mains are intentionally approachable, and most items fall around the $30 mark. They also include house-made tagliatelle with mushroom ragu; chargrilled chicken with chips and a green goddess-doused cos wedge; a cheeseburger made with meat from retired dairy cows; and beef and ale pie floaters – an Adelaide specialty that sees the pie served on a bed of pea soup.

Snacks, starters and desserts are a chance for Cohen to be more playful and lean into Australiana cuisine and nostalgic dishes.

Chicken liver parfait with a layer of apricot brandy jelly is his spin on apricot chicken, a dish from the 1970s and a staple in many Australian households at the time. Waldorf salad, typically made with chicken, celery, fruit and nuts, is reimagined here as grilled quail, apple and grapes on a bed of walnut puree. For dessert, there’s a classic sticky date pudding served with malt ice-cream.

Hayley McCarthy (ex-Ides) developed a beverage offering that, at opening, includes 16 wines by the glass and bottles primarily from Victoria and Europe. Plus there are classic cocktails with a slight refresh, including Martinis with cucumber and St Germain, and Pina Coladas with Branca fernet menta and green chartreuse. In keeping with the spirit of the pub, there’s XXXX Gold, Carlton and Guinness on tap, so you can grab a pint while you watch the game.

The North Fitzroy Arms Hotel
296 Rae Street, Fitzroy North
0422 222 767

Hours:
Mon to Thu 4pm–late
Fri to Sun midday–late

northfitzroyarms.com.au