Indian Accent’s Rijul Gulati on How the Nuances of Indian Cuisine Get Lost in Translation

Indian Accent is one of the world’s best restaurants. It’s ranked as India’s best restaurant by La Liste and as one of Asia’s best by the World’s 50 Best. It has outposts in New Delhi, Mumbai and New York. Last week, the head chef of Indian Accent New Delhi came to Perth for a two-day pop-up at Crown Perth.

Broadsheet took five with the chef to chat about Western Australian produce, the local restaurants he’s excited to try and the Australian chefs he looks up to.

Tell us about the food served at your Crown Perth pop-up. Do you have a favourite dish on the menu?

At Crown Perth, we’re offering a specially curated eight-course menu that beautifully marries traditional Indian flavours with contemporary flair, using local Western Australian ingredients. My personal favourites are the Shark Bay crab malwani pulao and the masala-baked beet with ravioli of Gujarati khandvi, which perfectly embody the fusion of Indian and Australian culinary traditions that we’re celebrating here.

Are there any Australian ingredients you’re particularly excited about cooking with?

Yes! Australia offers a treasure trove of ingredients, especially in Western Australia, where the seafood and produce are exceptional. I’m particularly excited about working with Shark Bay crab and south-west lamb. These ingredients, with their distinct flavours, pair beautifully with Indian spices and allow us to create dishes that honour the best of both Indian and Australian culinary traditions.

You’ve cooked around the world; what’s something that most people don’t understand about Indian cooking?

Indian cooking is incredibly diverse and regional, with flavours and techniques varying significantly between states, even within the same family of dishes. Many people view Indian food as just spicy or curry-based, but there’s so much more to it. Indian cuisine offers a world of subtleties, especially in how spices are balanced and layered. For example, North Indian cuisine is known for its rich, dairy-based dishes, while South Indian cuisine leans toward tangy flavours, with coconut and tamarind being key ingredients. Techniques like tempering spices or slow-braising meats bring depth and complexity to the dishes, making Indian cuisine far more nuanced than just the stereotypical curry and naan. Indian food is about creating harmony between bold and subtle flavours. I think that can sometimes get lost in translation.

Are there any restaurants you’re excited to try while you’re in Perth?

Absolutely! Perth has a vibrant dining scene, and I’m particularly looking forward to trying local fine dining spots and innovative eateries. The dining options at Crown Perth alone are impressive (Rockpool Bar & Grill, Nobu, Silks and more). One of the most rewarding aspects of doing pop-ups is exploring the local food scene, which not only inspires me as a chef, but also helps me understand the local palate.

Are there any Australian chefs that you admire or hope to collaborate with one day?

Australia has a fantastic pool of culinary talent, and chefs like Josh Niland who are truly inspiring. I admire his approach to zero-waste cooking and how he elevates local ingredients in creative ways. Growing up in India, I was also a huge fan of Masterchef Australia, and chefs like [original judges] Gary [Mehigan], Matt [Preston], and George [Calombaris] had a big influence on my early culinary aspirations. Collaborating with any of these chefs would be an incredible experience.

Indian Accent has outposts in New Delhi, Mumbai, and New York. Would you ever consider opening in Australia?

Australia’s dynamic food culture and its openness to exploring new flavours make it an exciting place for contemporary Indian cuisine. While it would ultimately be a decision for our management, I believe opening an Indian Accent outpost in Australia would be a great opportunity to share our unique interpretation of Indian food with an audience that’s eager to experience it. I think the blend of Australian ingredients with Indian cooking techniques has tremendous potential.

Other than Indian Accent, what are some restaurants you’d recommend for Australians visiting India?

For Australians visiting India, I’d recommend exploring restaurants that showcase the country’s rich culinary diversity. Bukhara in Delhi is a must-visit for its legendary kebabs and dal, while The Bombay Canteen in Mumbai offers a fresh take on regional Indian food. In Chennai, Kappa Chakka Kandhari provides an authentic South Indian experience. And of course, no trip to India is complete without sampling the vibrant street food in cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata – it’s an experience that’s both unique and unforgettable.

@rijul.gulati
@indianaccentmumbai