It was a sad day when we heard Raja was calling its final service in May. The “unapologetically Indian” dining room was only nine months old, with a kitchen helmed by young talent Ahana Dutt (ex-Firedoor) and a menu that brought something fresh to Sydney’s scene.

But ultimately the numbers made the decision: “This is the most challenging market I’ve ever traded in,” co-owner Nick Mathews-Bowden told Broadsheet at the time. He and husband Kirk Mathews-Bowden own Ezra too, the locally loved bar and restaurant next door to the old Raja site. Now, armed with a fresh concept, they’re ushering in Teddy.

“It’s such an unusual time in the industry, and it’s kind of rare to tap into excitement,” Nick tells Broadsheet. “We feel really, really lucky, because we’re super mindful of the choppy waters that we’re all sailing through right now. We’re so in love with the space, and we’re super grateful that we get to have a second crack … because it’s very unusual that you get a take two.”

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While the state of the industry is still dicey, the Mathews-Bowdens are taking a “triple-A” approach to “Aussie bistro” fare. “Affordable, accessible, approachable. I don’t think familiar is boring at all. I think familiar is comforting. And, in fact, we think there’s a great deal of power in it. As you felt the economy getting crunchier, everyone had to be more mindful of how they spent their money. I really started to see people sticking to their favourites.”

That means carby comforts like warm rolls with garlicky butter and fries doused in salt and vinegar. There’s a golden fried potato skin ferrying a whiff of whipped cod roe and pearls of salmon caviar, and a main that’s guaranteed to be a hit: Trottole Cacio e Pepeberry, where the curly pasta – doused in a cacio e pepe that uses native pepperberry instead of black pepper – sits atop sauteed spinach, then is topped with cheese and baked (lasagne-style) till it’s “really, really crunchy”. Sticking to that first A, all mains are under $40.

The menu’s been masterminded by Ben Sears, Ezra’s former head chef, who’s now cooking at Public Wine Shop in Melbourne. Head chef Nicole Coelho will be heading up the Teddy kitchen.

There’s a daily double happy hour from 4pm till 6pm (with $10 cocktails and wines, plus standout snacky things like a scamorza, saltbush and honey jaffle); a $29 wine and pasta combo on Wednesdays; a Marg and a main for $35 on Fridays; and happy hour runs all day on Sundays.

“Our opinion is that people’s desire to go out and socialise hasn’t diminished one bit, only their capacity to do so. So, [we want to] create spaces where they can continue to socialise, and do the things they love, within their means. I do believe this concept is right for any time, I just think it’s particularly right for right now.”

Teddy is slated to open at 1 Kellett Street, Potts Point, on Saturday August 31.

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