Ms.G’s

When you step into the street-art surrounds of Ms.G’s, it takes a moment to adjust. The four-storey space is much bigger than you’d suspect from outside. Also, there’s a red-light-district ambiance and an intriguing ceiling of suspended jam jars containing anything from matchboxes to crushed leaves.

The mix of booths, intimate wall-mounted tables and communal dining is one part Hong Kong kitsch and one part Korean diner, complete with stainless-steel cutlery holders and bottles of sriracha chilli sauce.

But the real drawcards here are executive chef Dan Hong (who holds the same role at Mr. Wong and El Loco) and head chef Paul Donnelly, a Scottish export. Their dishes are a skilful blend of Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean influences with a hint of Americana. Regulars can’t go past the mini bánh mì; cheeseburger spring rolls; and boneless fried chicken with spicy nahm jim sauce.

The Stoner’s Delight is a cult dessert that’s reached its third iteration – a deconstructed jam doughnut with bacon, Mars Bar brownie, potato chips and deep-fried Nutella.

If that seems a bit lowbrow, reach for the wine list where mid-range bottles are grouped under useful headings such as The Power + The Tannin and Dry, Light + Flirtatious. There’s an impressive range of signature cocktails to match. The tiny selection of big-name beers is the only real let-down.

In case you were wondering, the neon “Six Two One” sign on the wall is a cheeky reference to the additive number for MSG. Not that these chefs have any need for it, though.