There’s a stereotype that all inner-north dwellers are into bouldering. It’s not quite a thing south of the river – perhaps because the inner south doesn’t have as many rock climbing and bouldering gyms. That is, until Up Climbing opened in Balaclava.

“[Climbers] told us it’s an under-serviced area, and an area everyone wished had a bouldering gym close by,” co-owner Beor Ong tells Broadsheet. With the nearest gyms in Port Melbourne, Collingwood and Abbotsford, there’s been a gap in the inner south’s climbing scene since Prahran’s Boulder Project closed in March.

The new gym – owned by Ong, Dale and Wendy Barnett, and Ong’s brother Brett – is a stone’s throw from the station and trams along St Kilda Road.

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“We know that by opening in this area, there’ll be people just starting out, and we have every intention of [catering] more to beginner-friendly and intermediate grades, but that’s not to say we won’t cater to advanced climbers as well.”

There’s a slab wall for more balance-oriented routes, an overhanging cave section, an island in the centre of the gym with varying inclined walls, a section to the side focused on more competition-style boulders, and a Decoy board (a training board) that you can connect to via an app, so you can customise climbs or light up routes set by people all over the world. It’s at a 40-degree angle and experienced climbers can select a variety of challenges to help develop their skills.

Ong met the Barnetts while bouldering. Dale had plans to open a gym, while Ong had connections around the community through his Youtube channel. The Barnetts asked if he wanted to invest in their gym, and he’s been part of the team ever since.

“I stepped in, having climbed at all the other gyms, so [I had] that experience of what I didn’t like at those other gyms and that formed the basis of the design,” Ong says.

One of the biggest considerations was the social aspect of bouldering. Most of a climber’s session is spent off the wall – resting, trying to problem-solve a route or talking to friends. That’s why Up Climbing has plenty of space off the landing mats for conversing and hanging out off the wall, with stools, tables and chairs available throughout the gym.

There’s still more to come, too, such as a strength and fitness area, sparkling water on tap and a more developed cafe area that’ll serve pizza and chips.

First-timers at Up Climbing – whether beginners to bouldering or those with a bit of experience – can get a six-week intro trial membership, costing $19 per week. The trial includes unlimited climbing and free shoe hire. A single-day pass to visit costs $25, with shoe hire an extra $5. Full memberships cost $35 per week.

Up Climbing
24 William Street, Balaclava

Hours:
Mon to Fri 6am–10pm
Sat & Sun 8am–8pm

upclimbing.com.au
@up.climbing.stkilda