Perth’s best chicken schnitzel might just be frying at a cafe on a quiet corner in White Gum Valley. Topped with brown butter, capers and a lemon-and-herb sauce and served with a separate bowl of greens, it sounds relatively straightforward on the menu. But elevated simplicity is the core focus at Lovers Deli & Canteen, the new diner, deli and lunch bar hybrid from Mia Gammon and Jake Carter, who also own Good Things Cafe.

“We're trying to romanticise simplicity and find the comfort in those nostalgic offerings,” Carter tells Broadsheet. “Perth’s hospitality scene has grown so much since we first opened Good Things [ten years ago] and Good Things [is] a little bit stuck in its ways. People love it for what it is and there’s not a lot of room for us to grow, but Lovers is our opportunity to try new things and try a different style. It’s been a really exciting process and we’ve had a great team of people helping us along the way.”

Part of that team is Sydney interior architect and designer Patricia Adorable, who transformed the corner site (which was once a newsagent and, more recently, Vietnamese restaurant) with nostalgia in mind. It oozes old-school charm, with timber veneer panelling, chrome counters, glossy green features and the sort of plush banquette seats that have become synonymous with classic American diners. Red lighting and quiet corners give the space a moody wine bar vibe.

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That same nostalgia is woven throughout head chef Shauna Shapiro’s menu. Shapiro’s restaurant background (he was formerly at Madalena’s and Nieuw Ruin) and North American heritage has heavily influenced the food.

All day breakfast items include crepes with sour cherries and yoghurt cream; “green eggs and scram” coloured with a vibrant parsley sauce; and a blood pudding and egg muffin which is a retro riff on the McDonald’s breakfast staple. Carter admits the latter “was something I would never normally order, but then I tried it and it’s exceptional.”

From 11am until 2pm, you’ll find the aforementioned schnitzel; a caesar-roni sandwich with fried pepperoni, cheese, red sauce, rocket and house-made caesar dressing; two salads (one green, one Greek); and fries on the pass.

“The goal is to elevate simplicity in terms of what goes into each dish,” says Carter. “We’re using a lot of local suppliers to focus on quality and simplicity, but the work that goes into the prep and the sauces is where the elevation comes in.”

Coffee comes from Carter’s own roastery Double Double and – in huge news for caffeine fiends – will be available until 4 pm during the week. In true American deli-style, there’s also a generous selection of bottled juices, ice teas and sodas from the fridge, plus ready-made rolls, wraps, salads and sweet treats on display in the counter cabinet.

Outside, a converted car park now boasts a colourful kids’ area, giving “families the chance to sit down out the back and not necessarily have to worry about their kids running around”, he says. “A big part of our service is creating that feeling of old-school hospitality where everyone is welcome. We want [to] make Lovers really comfortable and accessible for everyone.”

Lovers Deli & Canteen
228 South Street, White Gum Valley
No phone

Hours:
Mon to Fri 7am–4pm
Sat & Sun 7am–3pm

@lovers.canteen
loversloverslovers.com.au