Georgie Davidson-Brown isn’t a big drinker. She stumbled into the wine world when she was 18 and thought wine tasted like “vinegar and sadness”. But a job at Melbourne’s The Commoner, under the guidance of sommelier Jasmine Wakely, set her on track for her latest role: head sommelier at Matt Moran’s Woollahra diner Chiswick.

On her way to Chiswick, she honed her palate working at restaurants like Melbourne’s Lume, Adelaide’s Orana, and Sydney’s Wyno x Bodega and Woodcut.

Since starting at Chiswick in September 2022, she’s curated a wine list that’s accessible and complements head chef Taylor Cullen’s seasonal menus, which regularly evolve to highlight the produce coming from the restaurant’s kitchen garden. She’s also quietly reworked the list to feature at least 50 per cent female-produced wine.

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She sat down with Broadsheet to chat about her favourite female wine producers, how to find a killer drop at your local bottle shop, and carving a path for the next generation of women in the wine industry.

You’ve made it your mission at Chiswick to have a wine list that’s 50 per cent female winemakers – why?
It’s always a work in progress, but yes, quietly, I prefer to showcase wines made by women.

Female representation in the industry is underrated and undervalued. Even as I approach my 10th year in hospitality and wine, while female representation is improving, there is still a huge way to go. I’ve personally experienced being put down or excluded due to my gender. I’ve been questioned, mansplained to and watched grown men have a tantrum in disbelief if I scored higher than them in a wine exam. In the past I’ve questioned myself, presented smaller and weaker, and lowered my voice, all to try and fit into this male-dominated culture.

But now … I am surrounded by industry greats. I have subconsciously created a joyful bubble of legends who I get to co-exist with, learn from and be supported by. It took a lot of work and many years to create this community for myself, so I have made it my mission to ensure that industry newbies have a welcoming community and better opportunities than I had when I joined the industry. There’s also a great group called Women and Revolution, founded by Bridget Raffal (Where’s Nick), Ella Stening (Ten Hats Bistro), Jacqueline Turner (Margaret) and Saranya Kundasamy, which I am also thrilled to be a part of. (They have an ever-growing list of female producers on their website too).

Can you name some female producers who deserve a shout-out?
Tessa Brown from Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown and Erin Pooley from Little Frances – both are currently on by the glass at Chiswick. They are incredible producers with talent second to none. I love how real and honest they are about the wine world, and how hard it can be. There is no gatekeeping of information or putting up a facade if things get tough. Equally, they hero other people in the industry.

What are you drinking at home?
A lot of green tea. I don’t drink alcohol much, honestly. When I do, it’s usually manzanilla sherry or muscadet – I love salty wines. Or Campari.

Speaking of drinking at home, what do you look out for when you’re shopping for wine at your local bottle-o?
You’ll find a lot of interesting, well-priced wines outside of the major grape varieties. The names can often be intimidating, (txakoli from Spain is the first that comes to mind), but they are often totally awesome and amazing value. If you like pinot grigio or light and refreshing white wines, look for txakoli, assyrtiko or godello.

I also think about climate. If you want a bold wine, go for a warmer climate – somewhere you might consider for a summer holiday. A lighter wine, go for a cooler climate, maybe where you’d go on a ski holiday.

Other than Chiswick (of course), where do you go for a drink in Sydney?
Bar Vincent, Lil Sis, Where’s Nick and Dear Sainte Eloise for great wine and banger snacks. Dean & Nancy on 22 for beautiful cocktails and dancing bartenders. Okay, maybe I lied before when I said I didn’t drink that much!

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