I love a bickie, and out of the packeted grocery-store line-up, the Monte Carlo is the best. (I won’t be taking feedback at this time.)

It’s the stickiness of the fluorescent pink layer of “jam”. (Is it really jam? I don’t know, but it’s good.) And the sandwich of textured golden biscuits. I could eat the whole packet (and have done so). So when I spied head pastry chef Rhiann Mead’s take on the Soluna dessert menu, I paid attention.

“I’ve always loved the Arnott’s biscuit,” Mead tells Broadsheet. “Growing up with two sisters, it was a fight over who got that pink biscuit.”

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Her tribute to the classic is elevated and adds ice-cream to the mix. For this one you’ll likely want cutlery. Here are all the details.

What: Monte Carlo, a dessert that layers honey gelato, coconut sorbet and rhubarb jam beneath a round of coconut shortbread.
How: Both the vanilla gelato (jazzed up with local honey from Malfroy’s Gold) and coconut sorbet are churned in-house daily. The smooth rhubarb jam starts with the tart veggie being roasted in honey, before it’s reduced down and refined. Each of those three is precisely portioned, spread evenly, stacked and kept in the freezer. A shortbread dough laden with butter and brown sugar makes for the ideal crunch and crumble. Circles are cut, brown sugar’s sprinkled on top then they’re baked. The golden crown is popped atop the frozen layers just before the dessert hits your table.
Cost: $18
Where: Soluna, in North Sydney’s new Walker Street precinct, from Wednesday till Sunday at lunch and dinner.

@soluna.sydney